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Neck Connector Adjustment Tutorials (updated with Part II - June 2019)

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GubernatorFan

GubernatorFan
Founding Father
This first post will serve as a table of contents for the various solutions posted below.

Part I in post 2 below (replacement for a neck connector that is too loose in the head cavity)
Part II in post 13 below (fixing a head connector that is too loose in the head cavity)


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ThePhotogsBlog

ThePhotogsBlog
Part I

Making a neck connector from a Staedtler art eraser.  It works to solve two problems:  

1. Ball joint on the skeleton is too small for standard neck connector and :  

2.  Neck connector is very loose in the head and you don't want to glue it.  

Neck Connector Adjustment Tutorials (updated with Part II - June 2019) 48135019917_4d77535dfc_b IMG_2993 by Gary  Menten , on Flickr

Here's what you'll need.  

1. Soft plastic art eraser such as the Staedtler line.

2. X-Acto knife with #11 blade.

3. drugstore type sandpaper nail files.  

4. drill bits of appropriate sizes.  

5.  small, round or semi-round file.  

Neck Connector Adjustment Tutorials (updated with Part II - June 2019) 48135019677_850eccdc3a_b IMG_2995 by Gary  Menten , on Flickr

1.  Place a plastic neck connector on the eraser to measure how much you have to cut from the eraser. Cut carefully and slowly; the blade wanders easily.


Neck Connector Adjustment Tutorials (updated with Part II - June 2019) 48134925176_2bd2796f4a_b IMG_2997 by Gary  Menten , on Flickr

2.  Using the neck connector to measure in length now, trim off the excess length with the knife.  



Neck Connector Adjustment Tutorials (updated with Part II - June 2019) 48134956613_624ed6dbdf_b IMG_2999 by Gary  Menten , on Flickr

Using your hobby knife, cut the corners off the block of plastic so as to have an octagonal shape.  Your geometry does not need to be perfect here.  Test the fit into the head as you go along. You want it to be snug.


3. Using your file, sand the corners of your octagon to get them as even as possible then take your hobby knife and start a pilot hole for the drill bits. Using a succession of drill bits bits, dill a progressively larger hole into the center of the adapter. Drill all the way to the end.  Be careful to keep your "tunnel" as straight as possible.  Using a hobby knife, bevel both ends of the tunnel, leaving the middle tighter.  The lower bevel helps to insert the ballhead without breaking the soft plastic and the top bevel gives it a bit of space to breathe, so to speak after you've pushed the ball joint all the way through.  

Neck Connector Adjustment Tutorials (updated with Part II - June 2019) 48134956428_bcc8c298bd_b IMG_3005 by Gary  Menten , on Flickr

4.  Carefully place the connector on the ball head and pull it down with your fingers wrapped around it.  when placed it should look like in the photo. You are now ready to put the head on the figure.  If you've fitted it properly to the head, friction will keep it in place and the walls of the hole in the head should help keep it from breaking, as should the top bevel.  I can pick up this figure by the head and the body will not fall off.

If you have any questions, feel free to ask me .

Stryker2011

Stryker2011
Founding Father
Interesting technique, and sounds like a great option. Thanks for sharing.


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Mark

He who dies with the most toys wins!

Neck Connector Adjustment Tutorials (updated with Part II - June 2019) TCFITBi

ThePhotogsBlog

ThePhotogsBlog
Stryker2011 wrote:Interesting technique, and sounds like a great option. Thanks for sharing.

You are quite welcome. I'm not saying it's the best solution out there; I'm sure there some I don't even know about, but it works for me.

skywalkersaga

skywalkersaga
Thanks for this! Female headsculpts falling off and/or not staying in the position I want them to is a huge problem for me so I might just try this out (after my insane house move is over).


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ThePhotogsBlog

ThePhotogsBlog
skywalkersaga wrote:Thanks for this! Female headsculpts falling off and/or not staying in the position I want them to is a huge problem for me so I might just try this out (after my insane house move is over).

You are quite welcome.

GubernatorFan

GubernatorFan
Founding Father
Thank you for the detailed and well-illustrated tutorial and starting off this thread. It looks like a very good solution.


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ThePhotogsBlog

ThePhotogsBlog
GubernatorFan wrote:Thank you for the detailed and well-illustrated tutorial and starting off this thread. It looks like a very good solution.

Quite welcome. I find that this is the best solution I know of for when the ball head is too small for the adapter as it is on the TB League S24-S27, though I am using it here on an S28 where the ball head fit the adapter but the adapter was too loose in the head sculpt. I could have glued the adapter to the head sculpt of course, but preferred to avoid this if possible.

GubernatorFan

GubernatorFan
Founding Father
ThePhotogsBlog wrote:Quite welcome.  I find that this is the best solution I know of for when the ball head is too small for the adapter as it is on the TB League S24-S27, though I am using it here on an S28 where the ball head fit the adapter but the adapter was too loose in the head sculpt. I could have glued the adapter to the head sculpt of course, but preferred to avoid this if possible.  

For various practical reasons I am firm opponent of neck adaptors being glued to the head, so I'm completely with you on that.


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ThePhotogsBlog

ThePhotogsBlog
GubernatorFan wrote:
ThePhotogsBlog wrote:Quite welcome.  I find that this is the best solution I know of for when the ball head is too small for the adapter as it is on the TB League S24-S27, though I am using it here on an S28 where the ball head fit the adapter but the adapter was too loose in the head sculpt. I could have glued the adapter to the head sculpt of course, but preferred to avoid this if possible.  

For various practical reasons I am firm opponent of neck adaptors being glued to the head, so I'm completely with you on that.


I found the Staedtler art erasers to have just the right properties for easy cutting and sanding as well as enough flexibility to pass the ball joint through the "tunnel" without causing it to split, as long as you don't do it too many times. The beveling of the openings is something I only thought of after having made some adapters that did eventually split over time and repeatedly removing the head.  Still, these things are very cheap and easy to make and easy to replace as needed.

In my next tutorial, I'll explain how I removed the soft rubber feet off an S09 and replaced them with prosthetic ones made of wood, glue and epoxy putty. They don't look at all human, so I have keep her in boots all the time, but now at least, she can stand up on her own without support.

Stryker2011

Stryker2011
Founding Father
I’m looking forward to seeing the floppy foot tutorial.


_________________
Mark

He who dies with the most toys wins!

Neck Connector Adjustment Tutorials (updated with Part II - June 2019) TCFITBi

ThePhotogsBlog

ThePhotogsBlog
Stryker2011 wrote:I’m looking forward to seeing the floppy foot tutorial.

It was something I thought through for months before attempting the fix.  Maybe that's why it worked.  The price you pay for this conversion however is that henceforth, your figure will have to wear boots that go past the ankle. Since I wanted to use this figure as part of my post apocalyptic range, this did not pose any problems for me.

GubernatorFan

GubernatorFan
Founding Father
Part II

Here is an alternative to the neck connector being too loose inside the head cavity solution presented in Part I (post 2) above. Again, this works if your head sits fine on the connector height-wise, but the connector is very loose inside the head. I will let my little helpers do the talking...

Neck Connector Adjustment Tutorials (updated with Part II - June 2019) Nca0110

Neck Connector Adjustment Tutorials (updated with Part II - June 2019) Nca0210

Neck Connector Adjustment Tutorials (updated with Part II - June 2019) Nca0310

Hope this was useful. (Yes, I know it looks like her head sits too high up in that last photo, but that's because of the angle, I promise -- and if it were a problem, that would be solved in another post.) Smile


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