Update on painting silicone seamless bodies (Phicen/TBLeague) with oil-based ink
As explained above (see Post 174), oil-based ink like that in the Pilot Drawing Pens (see Post 162 above) did not prove a permanent solution when applied directly onto the silicone seamless body. That solution appears to be provided by Uni Pin Fine Line fineliner drawing pens with water and fade proof pigment ink (see Post 192 above). However, when I experimented with this last option (Uni Pin Fine Line fineliner drawing pen) on a silicone seamless body that was painted with oil pastel
, it failed. So I decided to give the oil-based ink another try for this specific condition, figuring that oil ought to work on oil. Preliminary testing was very promising so I proceeded with it for my custom Darth Maul (see Parts I
and II HERE
). Also see The Further Adventures of Darth Maul, HERE.
Having first painted the body the base color (I looked it up, Maul's is supposed to be red), I applied the patterns of the "tattoos" (I think rather "war paint") with different tip-size (005 to 08) Pilot Drawing Pens with black oil-based ink (and, for some larger areas, black oil pastel, although that came out exceedingly dull and I partly went over it with oil-based ink). So far so good.
You want to give the ink a chance to dry, after which touching it is no problem. I knew that protecting powder ought to help (building up a thin layer between the surface and anything else), but I held off on using it, lest it dull the colors for the initial photo shoot. It was not the smartest decision (as expected), because repeated handling to pose and move the figure, however careful, led to some dulling and very slight smudging in some places. The worst problem was where areas of the surface come together (like the inside fold at the biceps or at the knee, or at the armpit and down the inside of the biceps), which allow the oil-based ink (even at a couple of days old) to transfer (stain) the clean surface. Take this into account and either coat the figure in protective powder before handling or test for staining in such places and incorporate the "problem area" into the pattern ("if you can't beat them, join them"). Now that I have coated the figure in protective powder, it seems to be doing its job, but I'm going to be handling it very rarely and very carefully.
The moral of the story is that you can draw designs on silicone seamless bodies that are painted over with oil pastel
, using Pilot Drawing Pens with oil-based ink, but you need to apply protective powder after this and probably exercise great care in handling. For drawing designs on silicone seamless bodies that are not painted with oil pastels
, I would stick to Uni Pin Fine Line fineliner drawing pens with water and fade proof pigment ink. Still, proceed at your own risk and apply extra protective powder (although, if you get some of the oil-based ink onto a silicone surface where you don't want it, you can wash it off with soap and water).Update:
A few weeks later, and the oil-based ink transfer issue is still a problem. While I'm experimenting to find a better solution for the painting onto oil-pastel-colored silicone bodies, one thing that has contained the problem is a vigorous but careful rubdown (or massage) of the surface with paper towels. Make sure to not move the paper towel (once used) over another area to avoid retransfer or smudging during the process. Keep going over the problem areas with fresh paper towels until you see no transfer. Theoretically, this might be the solution to the issue. But it does mean your design would look a little duller or slightly faded.