An online community to discuss and share news about sixth-scale figures, with an emphasis on either custom or commercial articulated figures.
Aria wrote:GubernatorFan, translucent powder is also known as setting powder in the makeup works, and some companies, like Laura Mercier, make translucent setting powder specifically for darker tones. Some of that might help keep your Finn body from getting dulled down with light setting powder.
GubernatorFan wrote:Aria wrote:GubernatorFan, translucent powder is also known as setting powder in the makeup works, and some companies, like Laura Mercier, make translucent setting powder specifically for darker tones. Some of that might help keep your Finn body from getting dulled down with light setting powder.
Thank you, Aria, I will keep that in mind in future. Just in case you happen to know, any tips for a powder with the appropriate properties (i.e., good for silicone and keeping it non-tacky) that does not show up too obviously in flash photos?
Aria wrote:The white, translucent powders show up the most, and so does too much of it. Use a flesh-toned powder, which can be anything from peachy to darker, anything but the powder-white stuff, press it onto the figure, and dust off any that's left over before photos. Use a diffuser over the flash. A diffuser itself won't entirely eliminate the issue, but will help, especially in combination with using a powder other than the super white stuff. Try to avoid powders with titanium dioxide and zinc oxide, which is in SPF formulas. Those are meant to deflect UV rays, but will also reflect flash. Avoid silica as well, which is mostly found in HD powders. CoverFX Perfect Setting Powder is a good bet. Not cheap, but we all know this hobby isn't cheap.
Lynkhart wrote:I find reborn dolls incredibly creepy and shudder-inducing, but I came upon this tutorial on how to paint them today and immediately thought of this thread! I’m assuming most seamless bodies are made of silicone so perhaps the paints referred to here would work?
Stryker2011 wrote:I may have found an option for painting seamless figures. There’s a company out there called Smooth-On that makes silicone mold-making products and pigments. I called them this morning and they think they have an option that could work. The pigment itself is super concentrated (called Silc-Pig), much like when you go to the hardware store to get paint, it doesn’t take much to get the color you want; then you add it to Sil-poxy Rubber Adhesive (this stuff is super thick), so it has to be diluted with Smooth-On NOVOCS Matte silicone solvent (this can be thinned down to any consistency, including the ability to use it with an air-brush). I ordered all three of these things off Amazon, and I’ll let you know what the results are. Altogether it cost about $112.00 for all this stuff.
skywalkersaga wrote:Ok....immediately i have run into a problem: the makeup sponge keeps 'sticking' to the seamless body. It's blending the colour into it just fine, but leaving residue from the sponge onto the body in the process. I'm not even sure how to fix that, or if I've totally wrecked it now! :/
What kind of makeup sponge are you supposed to blend it with???
GubernatorFan wrote:skywalkersaga wrote:Ok....immediately i have run into a problem: the makeup sponge keeps 'sticking' to the seamless body. It's blending the colour into it just fine, but leaving residue from the sponge onto the body in the process. I'm not even sure how to fix that, or if I've totally wrecked it now! :/
What kind of makeup sponge are you supposed to blend it with???
Don't panic. I don't know if there is a specific type to use, or a specific type not to use (though you seem to have discovered that -- I am assuming you mean parts of the actual sponge are becoming loose and sticking to the body). Try using one of those small travel-sized lint rollers to pick up stuff that shouldn't be on the body (though now that the body is sticky, it would be harder to pick it up). Or go carefully by hand or tweezers -- patience is something we need with this hobby from time to time. If you are not doing so already, try using a specially designated blending sponge (I noticed some of mine had that description on the packaging).
By the way, if your colors are blending, you're already ahead of the curve.
skywalkersaga wrote:Thanks for the calming advice, GF. :'D
I'm still not really sure what happened there -- I had decided to experiment on parts of the body that wouldn't be showing by trying different colours and also making layers, but then it just started looking weird and almost 'scaly'. O.o It could have been coming off the sponge, or might have been partially some residue from the pastels themselves that was sort of 'caking' on the surface of the body.... it was like, it blended a little, but then started building up a bit perhaps. But i was also worried that maybe the sponge I was using might have been scraping the silicone itself and that the residue on it was from that.
Weirdly, the parts that I *hadn't* blended with the sponge and had just applied one single layer of colour directly looked better and smoother. But I can't achieve the colour I want without several layers, so.... :/
I've taken a little break from applying the pastels and decided to try to wash the body to see what happened, just in some some soap and water. It does seem to have removed the residue and some of the 'caking' bits, leaving the underlying colour. I was panicking also that maybe I hadn't washed it thoroughly enough to begin with, and that perhaps the residue was actually the pastels sticking to the tbleague powder. So i thought giving it a wash might help... at least that way, the parts I hadn't 'painted' yet might still be useable.
Once it dries again, I'll try to muster the courage to keep working on it... :3
Welcome. I was off running an errand, and thought to myself I should suggest to you simply to wash the body again, but am glad you tried that anyway, with success. You really can pat/dab it dry, unless you have some particularly unhardy paper towels that will leave remnants stuck on it. Isn't it neat how the color sticks to the body, even if some of the water from washing it seems to run with a bit of dye?
Anyway, caking is normal when working with pastels of any sort on any sort of surface. You are probably not scraping the silicone "skin" or at least not enough to damage it. The use of the makeup sponge is specifically to rub the color more into the surface and to remove excess oil pastel, so your second description seems to indicate this was in fact normal. Keep going over it with the sponge until no oil pastel rubs off from the surface onto cloth or paper towel that you use to test it. Washing it with water is fine, but be careful with soap -- if you go back to earlier posts from Ephiane, you will see it is used to make the skin shinier, and that may or may not be what you want -- of course this might be a different process so it might not apply.
skywalkersaga wrote:Another semi-related question: you've mentioned using a type of silicone glue before in regards to painting the bodies.... I'm just wondering, what kind of glue works on these? Not necessarily for painting purposes, but in general. Especially for modding. Does superglue stick to the surface, or is a special glue required?
GubernatorFan wrote:skywalkersaga wrote:Another semi-related question: you've mentioned using a type of silicone glue before in regards to painting the bodies.... I'm just wondering, what kind of glue works on these? Not necessarily for painting purposes, but in general. Especially for modding. Does superglue stick to the surface, or is a special glue required?
No, you need something like THIS (at least I think that's the one I use). It is handy and reasonably good (remember to remove any protective powder on the surfaces you want to bond), creating a decent bond, but also ultimately removable if you try to peel it off the surface with sufficient determination. To be clear, I have never used it to glue different silicone surfaces together, just as a way of affixing a mixed-in color (theoretically acrylic should work mixed into the glue, but silc pig is much better).
skywalkersaga wrote:I realize now that it's probably best to work in many layers, and to 'wash' the figure in between, to remove the residue. I also experimented with light and darker colours and shades, and found that the darker shades don't seem to blend into lighter shades as well...or at least, the ones i was using did not. I'd love to be able to have multiple hues and shades, but just unsure if it's best to start with lighter shades and then add darker, or to use a somewhat darker colour as base and then add lighter colours on top?
Stryker2011 wrote:Well, my latest attempt with the Smooth-On products on the TBLeague body was another resounding failure. Apparently, whatever type of silicone TBL is using is not the same as what Smooth-On uses, and the paint doesn’t adhere properly. I don’t have an air-brush, so as you apply the paint, it begins to clump in sections as each new layer is added. Trying to use a pale body to make it White (like Lady Death), but you need to apply so many layers of the paint to get it to work, and as I said, the paint doesn’t go on smooth after each layer. That was a $145 experiment, and a complete failure.
maximvsv wrote:I picked up a Jiaou Doll body with "black" PS skin, which is much too pale. I am looking to color the body to match up with a head that I have on hand. Has this oil pastel method worked on a TPE body?
Also, I have been looking into the possibility of dying the TPE outright. What I found are TPE specific pigments, meant to be used with mineral carrier oil. Has anyone tried this?
skywalkersaga wrote:Wow, that's promising news, GF. Thanks for taking the plunge and being willing to experiment. Always so helpful!!!
skywalkersaga wrote:Sorry to double post, but I have been considering the viability of certain of my planned future projects, and was wondering if anyone has figured out how to either paint or draw tattoos or 'war paint' type designs onto seamless [male] bodies? I know Ephiane had some smaller painted acrylic tattoos on one of her female figures recently, but my concern is with anything covering a larger area like the chest or back, that it would flake. I'm not sure how one would be able to use the oil pastels for such a thing either, as they require blending to make them work, so doing intricate details seems out of the question.
Just to be clear, I'm talking about actually drawing designs onto the bodies [such as with a pen or something], rather than applying some kind of pre-made sticker type thing.
I know this has been discussed before -- I also recall Stryker having issues with the tattoos on his mini-me -- but just wondering if anyone's figured out anything?
If there really isn't any reliable way of hand-drawing tattoos onto a seamless body, would something like one of the more realistic WorldBox type bodies be the next place to look?
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