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16 - 7 Questions... Empty 7 Questions... on Mon May 18, 2020 3:58 am

1/6Novice


Any help would be appreciated.

1) What is the best way to take care of seamless bodies?
I saw a video on youtube that said after soap & water to apply baby powder or cornstarch or something similar to the body...Is this correct?

2) What is the difference between TBLeague M34, & M35 bodies?
They are both meant to be Arnold Schwarzenegger's body, aren't they?

3) What is the secret (if there is any) to putting on clothes on Seamless bodies?

4) How...fragile/delicate is the rubbery material that is used on Seamless bodies?
Will it melt above a certain room temperature? Relating to #3, will RC Shock oil damage them? I assume something with Petroleum distillates would.

5) I've only bought Phicen/TBL bodies, Are the other seamless/nonseamless bodies as 'good'?
Jiaou, Hot Toys, Etc?

6) Do HT & TBL hands use the same size/shape wrist connections? If I bought a HT product, would it need to be altered to fit a Seamless body?

7) If I wanted to build a diorama, what material would be best? I.E. Most durable, yet soft enough to cut easily.

Thanks for any help!

26 - 7 Questions... Empty Re: 7 Questions... on Mon May 18, 2020 5:56 am

AlKelAstra91

AlKelAstra91
I can answer a few of these.

1) I use exfoliating face cleansing wipes to clean the skin. They don't leave behind flecks of tissue like normal baby wipes. Then after drying apply baby powder with a soft paintbrush/sponge.

3) Wrap the areas you want to clothe in plastic cling wrap. Clothing slides on very easily then.

5) I have a few Jiaou dolls, but TBLeague has superior range of articulation. TBLeague silicone skin is also more durable.

7) Foam blocks and shapes in various sizes from the craft section at Walmart. Can probably order better quality online, though.

36 - 7 Questions... Empty Re: 7 Questions... on Mon May 18, 2020 8:50 am

Stryker2011

Stryker2011
Founding Father
1. Yes to applying the powders in your question. However, avoid washing them as much as possible. If you are just removing dust and lint, use a makeup brush or similar instead.

2. Basically just more muscle definition on the legs of the 35.

3. Already been answered for you. (Another trick is to coat the body part in more of the powder — but this can get messy.)

4. & 5. The materials used by both HT and Jiaou for their seamless bodies aren’t half as resilient as TBL, but if treated with care, kept out of direct sunlight, and not left in any extreme poses for any length of time, you should be fine. Keeping them in an area of your house that doesn’t suffer from extreme fluctuations in temp and humidity will also go a long way to preserving ANY of these figures (clothing and bodies included). Extremes in posing can sometimes cause damage to any of the skin — particularly at joint points where the material is thinner, or where it gets overly stretched — so be careful.

6. I’ve never had an issue putting HT hands on TBL bodies, though I’ve never had a need to go the other way.

7. Already been answered.


_________________
Mark

He who dies with the most toys wins!

6 - 7 Questions... Bnp4ba10
Credit to greygoose for the signature card

46 - 7 Questions... Empty Re: 7 Questions... on Mon May 18, 2020 8:52 am

1/6Novice


AlKelAstra91 wrote:I can answer a few of these.

1) I use exfoliating face cleansing wipes to clean the skin. They don't leave behind flecks of tissue like normal baby wipes. Then after drying apply baby powder with a soft paintbrush/sponge.

3) Wrap the areas you want to clothe in plastic cling wrap. Clothing slides on very easily then.

5) I have a few Jiaou dolls, but TBLeague has superior range of articulation. TBLeague silicone skin is also more durable.

7) Foam blocks and shapes in various sizes from the craft section at Walmart. Can probably order better quality online, though.

Thanks! Now for the even numbers? Laughing

But wouldn't cling wrap be hard to remove?

56 - 7 Questions... Empty Re: 7 Questions... on Mon May 18, 2020 8:54 am

Stryker2011

Stryker2011
Founding Father
Since the cling wrap is covered up... you generally don’t remove it. It’s there to stay.


_________________
Mark

He who dies with the most toys wins!

6 - 7 Questions... Bnp4ba10
Credit to greygoose for the signature card

66 - 7 Questions... Empty Re: 7 Questions... on Mon May 18, 2020 8:59 am

BAD WOLF-787

BAD WOLF-787
Well I at least can answer one of your questions.


3) What is the secret (if there is any) to putting on clothes on Seamless bodies?

 One trick I like to use for putting on clothes on Seamless bodies is I use a Great Value one gallon twist tie bag.

6 - 7 Questions... 2v2ujEfCNxAChVkHosted on Fotki

6 - 7 Questions... 2v2ujEfnzxAChVkHosted on Fotki

6 - 7 Questions... 2v2ujEAU8xAChVkHosted on Fotki

I got the idea from my first Phicen/TBL Lady Death figure.

6 - 7 Questions... 2v2H6YdqyxAChVk[url=https://www.fotki.com]Hosted on Fotki[/url


_________________
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76 - 7 Questions... Empty Re: 7 Questions... on Mon May 18, 2020 9:04 am

1/6Novice


Stryker2011 wrote:1. Yes to applying the powders in your question. However, avoid washing them as much as possible. If you are just removing dust and lint, use a makeup brush or similar instead.

2. Basically just more muscle definition on the legs of the 35.

3. Already been answered for you. (Another trick is to coat the body part in more of the powder — but this can get messy.)

4. & 5. The materials used by both HT and Jiaou for their seamless bodies aren’t half as resilient as TBL, but if treated with care, kept out of direct sunlight, and not left in any extreme poses for any length of time, you should be fine. Keeping them in an area of your house that doesn’t suffer from extreme fluctuations in temp and humidity will also go a long way to preserving ANY of these figures (clothing and bodies included). Extremes in posing can sometimes cause damage to any of the skin — particularly at joint points where the material is thinner, or where it gets overly stretched — so be careful.

6. I’ve never had an issue putting HT hands on TBL bodies, though I’ve never had a need to go the other way.

7. Already been answered.


Thanks!

As for #2...wow.That's it? Huh. I got a Conan set and the seller said/recommended the M35, putting the boots on the M34 was so hard. One of the pair tore apart just as I was getting it on. It's salvageable but only if you're not looking at it. I wish I posted this first.

#6...Anyone know offhand the diameter of HT wrist connectors?

86 - 7 Questions... Empty Re: 7 Questions... on Mon May 18, 2020 9:20 am

1/6Novice


Stryker2011 wrote:Since the cling wrap is covered up... you generally don’t remove it. It’s there to stay.


Thank you for the reply.

But that would make things more complicated...I have only 2 male bodies M31 & M34, & 1 Female body (with 1 pre-ordered). 2 male heads, 2 large size skulls (coo model) and 1 Female head ( with 1 on the way)...

Oh, and a S27 that I've defleshed and am continuously am working on...

My budget is quite tight. But it seems I've chosen an expensive hobby.


96 - 7 Questions... Empty Re: 7 Questions... on Mon May 18, 2020 9:27 am

1/6Novice


BAD WOLF-787 wrote:
Well I at least can answer one of your questions.


3) What is the secret (if there is any) to putting on clothes on Seamless bodies?

 One trick I like to use for putting on clothes on Seamless bodies is I use a Great Value one gallon twist tie bag.

6 - 7 Questions... 2v2ujEfCNxAChVkHosted on Fotki

6 - 7 Questions... 2v2ujEfnzxAChVkHosted on Fotki

6 - 7 Questions... 2v2ujEAU8xAChVkHosted on Fotki

I got the idea from my first Phicen/TBL Lady Death figure.

6 - 7 Questions... 2v2H6YdqyxAChVk[url=https://www.fotki.com]Hosted on Fotki[/url

Thanks, but I like photographing my figures, and all that would add a lot of reflective material...

But then again...Seeing your Lady Death (in plastic) has sent me off in a completely different direction...

I'm wondering how to make a 'Rover' from The Prisoner...

There hasn't been any kind of Patrick Mcgoohan figure in 1/6 scale, has there?

106 - 7 Questions... Empty Re: 7 Questions... on Mon May 18, 2020 9:30 am

Stryker2011

Stryker2011
Founding Father
Expensive indeed. It’s not going to get any better unfortunately. It CAN be done with limited budgets, you just have to learn to make a lot of stuff, save up, pace yourself, or pick less expensive options that may not be as ideal. If you are dead set on the higher end stuff, budgeting is crucial or you will get into trouble quickly, as this hobby as customizers and bashers is a lot of trial and error and gets super expensive quickly. I’m not trying to discourage you from the hobby, I’m just letting you know the realities of this one.


_________________
Mark

He who dies with the most toys wins!

6 - 7 Questions... Bnp4ba10
Credit to greygoose for the signature card

116 - 7 Questions... Empty Re: 7 Questions... on Mon May 18, 2020 9:36 am

Stryker2011

Stryker2011
Founding Father
In Badwolf’s case, he is removing the plastic from the figure after it is clothed, as thicker plastic wrap like that CAN be removed. Tight fitting clothes that cover the majority of the body, if using cling wrap which is super sticky, would be virtually impossible to remove completely.


_________________
Mark

He who dies with the most toys wins!

6 - 7 Questions... Bnp4ba10
Credit to greygoose for the signature card

126 - 7 Questions... Empty Re: 7 Questions... on Mon May 18, 2020 9:41 am

1/6Novice


Stryker2011 wrote:In Badwolf’s case, he is removing the plastic from the figure after it is clothed, as thicker plastic wrap like that CAN be removed. Tight fitting clothes that cover the majority of the body, if using cling wrap which is super sticky, would be virtually impossible to remove completely.

Yeah I thought so, but it must be hard to do so, without moving or removing the clothing in question?

136 - 7 Questions... Empty Re: 7 Questions... on Mon May 18, 2020 10:31 am

BAD WOLF-787

BAD WOLF-787
Stryker2011 wrote:In Badwolf’s case, he is removing the plastic from the figure after it is clothed, as thicker plastic wrap like that CAN be removed. Tight fitting clothes that cover the majority of the body, if using cling wrap which is super sticky, would be virtually impossible to remove completely.

Thank you Stryker2011.

Also it's my preferred method for fully clothed figures expressly when trying to put on skin tight outfit like Batwoman's.

That was the body I uses for this figure and also it helps protects the body from staining.

6 - 7 Questions... 2v2H67oKMxAChVkHosted on Fotki


_________________
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146 - 7 Questions... Empty Re: 7 Questions... on Mon May 18, 2020 11:10 am

skywalkersaga

skywalkersaga
Regarding the cling film, I *do* remove it from my figures after clothing them, but I have not yet attempted to do so from underneath a super tight, full body outfit -- I suppose that would indeed be quite tough to do. But when I'm working on an outfit, I often cover the body I'm using in cling film simply to give it a bit more protection from both the fabric and my needle, lol, until I'm close to finishing it. 

Just as example, I had the entire torso, bust, and arms on this figure [still a WIP] completely covered with the plastic wrap until I was almost done with it. I had applied the plastic wrap in sections, and carefully removed it with tweezers. 

6 - 7 Questions... 93273911

I'd also used plastic wrap to get the tight-fitting customized trousers onto the legs, but left enough sticking out the bottom of the ankle area that it was fairly easy to pull out with the tweezers. I guess leaving some plastic wrap on underneath is not an issue if it's a very thin amount, but in my case I'd kind of gotten a bit sloppy and it was rather thick and bulky underneath, so needed to be removed. ;p 

For more info on the Conan set [well, one of them!], see here: 

https://onesixthfigures.forumotion.com/t2030-conan-the-barbarian-set-a-by-mr-toys-mt2018-02-review?highlight=conan


_________________
"The happy ending of the fairy tale, the myth, and the divine comedy of the soul, is to be read,
not as a contradiction, but as a transcendence of the universal tragedy of man."

Focusing on the Prequels, Clone Wars, and Original Trilogy eras (NO 'sequels', thanks!)
https://the-far-bright-center.tumblr.com/

156 - 7 Questions... Empty Re: 7 Questions... on Mon May 18, 2020 11:18 am

GubernatorFan

GubernatorFan
Founding Father
1/6Novice wrote:1) What is the best way to take care of seamless bodies?
I saw a video on youtube that said after soap & water to apply baby powder or cornstarch or something similar to the body...Is this correct?

Yes. You might not even need soap if the body is not too dirty or stained -- just a water rinse may help. To keep it gentle and safe just in case, I'd say pat dry. You can also use make up silicone powder. All of these powders work fine, apparently, though some or most might give you a dusty look if you use flash when taking photos. You can rub in the powder with your fingers or with a soft paintbrush or with an actual make up brush.

Speaking of stains (from clothing, etc), not to worry too much. Give it a couple of days and the silicone might have absorbed them to the point where they might not be apparent. If that doesn't happen, wash gently with soap and water, then follow the process just covered. If there is still a stain, supposedly repeated application of acne products containing benzoyl peroxide can eventually remove the stain (of course, remove the protective powder by washing first, then reapply after you're done).

Here is the staining and cleaning thread:
https://onesixthfigures.forumotion.com/t215-staining-and-cleaning-continuously-updated

1/6Novice wrote:2) What is the difference between TBLeague M34, & M35 bodies?
They are both meant to be Arnold Schwarzenegger's body, aren't they?

M35 is even bulkier than M34. Both are theoretically suitable for Arnold, although in some of his film appearances (e.g., in Conan the Destroyer) he was (purposefully) less bulky than either. There are some comparison photos in my review (very photo heavy) --
https://onesixthfigures.forumotion.com/t247-tbleague-phicen-m35-updated-photo-heavy?highlight=tbleague+m35

1/6Novice wrote:3) What is the secret (if there is any) to putting on clothes on Seamless bodies?
Saran wrap or slightly harder/thicker plastic wrap helps a lot, which is not to say I always use it. Sometimes it is difficult to get off the figure once you've put it on -- depending on how tight and covering the clothing involved is. You certainly don't have to apply it over the whole figure  (e.g., if it is a question of helping you with a pair of jeans, wrap the two legs separately -- and if possible not too tightly, so that you could pull out the wrap later -- and that should be enough). Remember that the silicone flesh is squeezable, and use that when you try to stuff it into tight sleeve and pant leg openings -- in essence you can massage the muscles into them. A good coating of protective powder is also a good start, as it makes the silicone surface less tacky.

1/6Novice wrote:4) How...fragile/delicate is the rubbery material that is used on Seamless bodies? Will it melt above a certain room temperature? Relating to #3, will RC Shock oil damage them? I assume something with Petroleum distillates would.

It is not that fragile -- I've purposefully cut up one (as have you), and that took quite an effort. It will not melt at any room temperature. Heating the hard plastic hand sculpts with a blow dryer (or hot water) is a good idea when swapping them, and even that does not damage the neighboring part of the seamless body -- though I would advise doing it carefully and sparingly just in case. Of course, I wouldn't put it in the oven or throw it in the fire and expect it to come out ok. I think humidity is a bigger problem than heat, so keep that in mind, and store with the silica desiccant packets they come with. And keep them well-powdered.

1/6Novice wrote:5) I've only bought Phicen/TBL bodies, Are the other seamless/nonseamless bodies as 'good'? Jiaou, Hot Toys, Etc?

No. Jiaou comes closest, but it uses TPE instead of silicone, and that is a more fragile material (someone explained it is made of the same stuff as Styrofoam) and easier to damage, especially if you're trying to modify it with oil pastels or whatever; it also stains more easily. Jiaou bodies have almost the same range of articulation, but not quite, and no full metal skeleton (only metal joints), which makes the experience both more limited and more frustrating. There are some issues with the sculpt, too, although they provide more skintone choices (though beware of "black" which is not). That said, I've dedicated a few Jiaou bodies to some figures. Hot Toys does not have a full seamless body; the partial seamless applications they have are reputedly limiting articulation and not very hardy. Stryker can tell you about a true fully seamless body out there, but it comes only as a single female model and has its own issues and limitations.

1/6Novice wrote:6) Do HT & TBL hands use the same size/shape wrist connections? If I bought a HT product, would it need to be altered to fit a Seamless body?

Yes, about the same. HT hands, by the way, are very often oversized (notoriously so), in part because they are scaled to look good with clothing in this scale, which is itself often slightly off scale. The TBLeague hands (smaller) and feet (larger) are scaled correctly to the bodies themselves. Most 1/6-scale hands would work with TBLeague wrist pegs (it is advisable to heat up the hard plastic before removing or popping on).

1/6Novice wrote:7) If I wanted to build a diorama, what material would be best? I.E. Most durable, yet soft enough to cut easily.

That really depends on the diorama in question. Foam board might be a good idea, but don't get it wet or it will warp. Typically, a diorama would be made up of a number of parts, so I'm assuming you mean the overall background. For that you can have high-resolution photos printed out on large sheets of matte paper and taped/pinned/held by magnets onto foam board or some other backing. You can also use a printed image as the flooring. Then populate the area in front with furniture and figures, etc. Like here:

https://onesixthfigures.forumotion.com/t1986-avengers-deleted-scene-revealed-no-spoilers

https://onesixthfigures.forumotion.com/t1862-star-wars-a-lone-scoundrel-story

https://onesixthfigures.forumotion.com/t611-fanboys#9195

You might even get away with using the bottom part of your background image as the ground -- provided it is suitable and that you have enough of it, like here:

https://onesixthfigures.forumotion.com/t442-jurassic-pratt#7575

https://onesixthfigures.forumotion.com/t1973-star-wars-sandtrooper-kitbash-custom-updated-with-part-ii (desert)

https://onesixthfigures.forumotion.com/t1794-teutonic-knight-by-china-toys-review (forest)

Or, if you have a large enough and high-resolution enough screen (and high-resolution enough photos), you can try projecting the background by displaying it on the screen, like here:

https://onesixthfigures.forumotion.com/t2799-star-wars-the-further-adventures-of-darth-maul-updated-with-part-ii-may-2020

https://onesixthfigures.forumotion.com/t1854-new-superhero-revealed-fire-man-nsfw-updated-with-part-ii-july-2019

https://onesixthfigures.forumotion.com/t792p41-conanesque-a-fantasy-warrior-kitbash-update-5-february-2020#33752 (post 73 and several more after that)

Hope this helps.


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166 - 7 Questions... Empty Re: 7 Questions... on Mon May 18, 2020 11:41 am

skywalkersaga

skywalkersaga
Yes to all of GubernatorFan's great diorama suggestions! There are countless options for making dio's, and it honestly depends on the overall vibe and aesthetic and type of scene you want to do. 

Various posters here on this forum have their own sort of styles for approaching this, but generally some kind of printed 2D, or handmade 3D backdrop is involved, along with a 'floor' and/or base of some kind, and then various physical 3D elements incorporated throughout. Backpool uses high quality printed images combined with various other physical items -- not to mention skilled lighting -- to recreate movie scenes to amazing effect. ReverendSpooky hand-carves individual bricks out of foamboard to use as backdrops for his elaborate post-apocalyptic scenes. Ephiane, AlkelAstra and others use a combo of printed backdrops with things like faux foliage and rocks. GF, as noted, can make just a single piece of printed matte paper work as both backdrop and 'floor' for some of his photos, and it looks great.  

Another option for very simple background is to strategically drape fabric so that the photos at least give the vague impression of having some depth and dimension, along with a sense of 'place'. I did this in my latest photoshoot:

https://onesixthfigures.forumotion.com/t2855-death-and-the-maiden-rots-style-anakin-and-padme-image-heavy

I also used contact paper to create the 'marble' floor. This was makeshift 'diorama' due to the limitations of the pandemic lockdown, but shows an example of something created with household items. 

Then you have the great outdoors themselves -- if chosen carefully in terms of setting and scale, natural outdoor settings can be the perfect backdrop for 1/6 figures, and no assembly required. Wink


_________________
"The happy ending of the fairy tale, the myth, and the divine comedy of the soul, is to be read,
not as a contradiction, but as a transcendence of the universal tragedy of man."

Focusing on the Prequels, Clone Wars, and Original Trilogy eras (NO 'sequels', thanks!)
https://the-far-bright-center.tumblr.com/

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