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Staining and Cleaning (continuously updated)

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GubernatorFan


Founding Father
Someone brought up oiling the bodies recently, but I'm really not sure if that works and if it is advisable. He was new to these bodies, so he had no experience doing that and was therefore speaking theoretically. I'm not ready to experiment with that. I would stick to regular hand soap (I suppose bath soap is much the same) -- antibacterial or not. Dish soap may have extreme anti-grease (i.e., oil) properties. One wash with it is not likely to have caused any damage. Do apply protective powder after any wash (whether just water or soap and water) and after much handling (if you feel the surface getting sticky).

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baycon


Thanks for guiding me, Stryker2011 and GubernatorFan. Will take note of your advice and follow them when handling figures Very Happy

I will stay away from baby oil then. Oh, I've never thought of regular hand soap. I use dish soap as my hand soap, because I don't like that moist feeling that hand soaps give Laughing

Are those moisturizing hand soaps alright for washing these figures? I'm asking because I don't think I've encountered a non-moisturizing one.

skywalkersaga


I don't want to lead anyone astray, but I use 'liquid detergent' (as in, liquid diswashing soap) on my tbleague bodies and haven't had any issues so far. So long as I put the protective powder back on, afterward, they seem to be ok.

GubernatorFan


Founding Father
Thank you for confirming that you have been using dish soap and had not problems, Sky. Good to know. As for the other soaps, I suppose most soaps that are meant to go on the human skin would be fine, as they cannot be too harsh.

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baycon

baycon
Thanks skywalkersaga and GubernatorFan.

Btw, I forgot to specify that I used laundry liquid detergent, not dish soap. It's the same one I use for washing new 1/6 clothes, that's why I have one within reach at that time.


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skywalkersaga

skywalkersaga
Ah ok, yeah I guess laundrey detergent might be a bit harsher, potentially. It's can be confusing w/ the differences in UK vs. US terminology... ;p


_________________
"The happy ending of the fairy tale, the myth, and the divine comedy of the soul, is to be read,
not as a contradiction, but as a transcendence of the universal tragedy of man."

Ignoring current 'official' Star Wars content for my own sanity.

GubernatorFan

GubernatorFan
Founding Father
Just to be safe, use soap meant for human skin in the future, although it is nice to know that some use of more advanced detergents has not led to damage yet.


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MeMyself&I

MeMyself&I
I had bought some jeans for a figure and they stained instantly, but a q-tip and some baby oil took care of the staining with no effort, so I can confirm in my experience it works great. Running the jeans through the wash a few times took care of the bleeding enough that I don’t care anymore about it. Not sure how well it works on longer term stains, but for things you notice instantly it’s fantastic.

Do clean it normally after because it is oil and can make protective powder act a bit odd if you put it on right away.

Side note: If you ever see me say “mineral oil” I am using it interchangeably with baby oil (since it’s so similar if not the same depending on what you buy).

GubernatorFan

GubernatorFan
Founding Father
Thanks for the advice, MeMyself&I. Cloth items can usually be rendered safe (if one has the patience to take this step) by submerging in some hot water with color-safe bleach a couple of times. Or, I've been told water and (white?) vinegar. It is more complicated with leather, pleather, and other materials.


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baycon

baycon
I agree skywalkersaga, the differences in terminology can sometimes be confusing. Haha

I'll definitely grab a bottle of hand soap later. Thanks for the reminder GubernatorFan.

Thanks for the advice about baby oil MeMyself&I. I tried it on the stains that my s34 got four days ago, but it didn't work. I guess it's more effective on fresh stains.

Haven't tried using bleach or vinegar for washing. I'll definitely try that method if I ever encounter clothes that won't stop bleeding. Thanks GubernatorFan.

What I've been doing is:
1. Submerge the clothes in liquid laundry detergent in a container with a lid
2. Gently stir them using your fingers until the detergent becomes foamy
3. Add some water, then cover the container
4. Shake it a lot
5. Leave it for 24 hrs (I think 12 hours is enough, though)
6. If there's no bleeding, rinse the clothes. Then you're done;
If there's bleeding, take the clothes out of the container and repeatedly do the following for a minute or so, as if playing with clay, but gently:
     a. Roll them into a ball between the hands
     b. Roll them into a log
     c. Squeeze them
     d. Rinse them while doing a - c
7. Repeat 1-6 until the clothes stop bleeding

GubernatorFan

GubernatorFan
Founding Father
Sounds like you have a pretty good anti-staining protocol worked out already. Smile


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Kayla

Kayla
Thank you for sharing your experiences on staining and cleaning.  repair - Staining and Cleaning (continuously updated) - Page 3 D012 Many have probably already had painful experiences with discoloration of clothing - you can't always only wear white clothes (even if I luckily like white and my 1:6 scale girls and ladies too).


Over many years I have gained experience in the durable dyeing of 1:1 scale clothing (for people). And then fixing salt is used to fix the color and, if necessary, supplemented with normal table salt (if the amount of fixing salt is not enough).

So I transferred these experiences to the 1:6 scale clothing. I first wash the clothes I bought with liquid detergent for silk and wool (very mild detergent). Each item of clothing comes in an extra cereal bowl (for better observation). In several rinses I watch whether the paint is still bleeding. repair - Staining and Cleaning (continuously updated) - Page 3 A015 When little or no more color is bleeding out, I add table salt to the rinse bath to fixate and let it soak for a while. And then rinse one last time with clean water and let it dry.

Once I was too impatient with a new pair of jeans - a big mistake!  repair - Staining and Cleaning (continuously updated) - Page 3 E02110 I really wanted to know immediately whether the fit was right and immediately tried the jeans on a Phicen Lady. And her legs and feet (seamless) were instantly blue! Of course, I immediately washed the body with water and a mild shower gel and the discoloration became a little lighter. Then I put the Phicen Lady in a tall cylinder with distilled water for about  2  weeks, which covered the discoloration. Fortunately, the color has been completely removed.
Caution - please do not use normal tap water (for soaking)! repair - Staining and Cleaning (continuously updated) - Page 3 B042repair - Staining and Cleaning (continuously updated) - Page 3 B036
In my first attempt with tap water (a long time ago) the silicone skin turned reddish brown because the water contained traces of minerals. If you leave the body in the water for a few days, it takes on the color of the minerals (even if the water looks clear). But I was also able to completely remove this discoloration with distilled water. Lots of trial and error experience!

skywalkersaga

skywalkersaga
Really helpful of you to share your experiences with these situations here, too!


_________________
"The happy ending of the fairy tale, the myth, and the divine comedy of the soul, is to be read,
not as a contradiction, but as a transcendence of the universal tragedy of man."

Ignoring current 'official' Star Wars content for my own sanity.

Stryker2011

Stryker2011
Founding Father
Interesting tidbits, Kayla. Another round of informative knowledge.


_________________
Mark

He who dies with the most toys wins!

repair - Staining and Cleaning (continuously updated) - Page 3 C8485110

GubernatorFan

GubernatorFan
Founding Father
Thank you for the information on your stain removing and color fixing experience. I think our water supplies vary, depending on location, but you're right, others too (Sky, I think) have also mentioned the worth of using distilled water. And apparently vinegar can also help when treating clothing (Stryker). My impatience usually gets the better of me, but I do approach black and dark clothing with caution. The good news is that usually a gentle wash and a little bit of time are enough to ensure the disappearance of the stain, although it certainly does not feel like it at the time you are faced with it.


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Kayla

Kayla
Yes, I've already read about fixing with vinegar. But I don't like the smell at all, so this odor-intensive method is unfortunately out of the question for me.
And yes, removing stains from the silicone skin is often a incredible miracle!   repair - Staining and Cleaning (continuously updated) - Page 3 A04063 You never know exactly how the silicone will behave and it is often a matter of luck whether a method works or not. A really exciting material.

That's why it's really great that we share our trial and error methods together and that some people can save themselves a failed attempt.

Diana

Diana
Distilled water: check! I didn't have that on my radar, so thank you for posting your method, Kayla! (I also adore your use of emoticons! Very Happy)

Diana

Diana
My question isn't about stains, but it is about cleaning...
Some may remember my kinesiology tape experiment. I was a little careless and left it on for too long. Now I'm setting aside the avoidance and wanting to deal with it. Smile

Any ideas how I might remove the glue residue? Soap and (cold and warm) water didn't do the trick.

repair - Staining and Cleaning (continuously updated) - Page 3 Img_3015

GubernatorFan

GubernatorFan
Founding Father
Ouch! And to think I was totally going to follow your lead and experiment with kinesiology tape clothing. Hmm, I was going to say start with soap and warmish water, but apparently that is a no... drawing a blank at other concrete suggestions at the moment. Is the gluey goo something you can gently scrape off with your nail? Would powdering it before trying to do so help? I think some have mentioned mineral spirits not harming the body (as long as you back and re-powder), would those help? Anyone have more insight on this?


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Stryker2011

Stryker2011
Founding Father
Man, that’s a tough one. I think Ian may be on to something, but I have no ideas myself. Maybe turn her into a torture survivor (I know, that sounds bad — I’m not trying to be funny).


_________________
Mark

He who dies with the most toys wins!

repair - Staining and Cleaning (continuously updated) - Page 3 C8485110

skywalkersaga

skywalkersaga
I have used gooboo's suggestion of white spirits (for oil paint thinning) to remove oil pastel from the tbleague bodies. I apply it with a large paintbrush, and just keep gently 'scrubbing' it until the colour comes off....could be worth a try?


_________________
"The happy ending of the fairy tale, the myth, and the divine comedy of the soul, is to be read,
not as a contradiction, but as a transcendence of the universal tragedy of man."

Ignoring current 'official' Star Wars content for my own sanity.

Diana

Diana
Hey everyone! Thank you for the replies! (For some reason the subforum didn't show me the new posts.)

I've looked into how to remove glue. I'll try coconut oil first. Plan B is alcohol (isopropanol). If that fails... fingernails it is, but I'm too worried to tear the skin to start with that. I will report!

@Mark, I've actually thought about using this body for a scarred character. Even thought about changing the story of the character this body was intended for. I'm kinda liking the idea... Imagine! I might dunk her into a Rit Dye bath. Those "scars" would probably not take the stain well... Too exciting to not try. Smile

But I first want to know how to remove the glue. I'll start with a small section.

@Gub, I'm not done with the kinesiology tape experiment. But I might wait for my new work space to be ready some time this spring hopefully. Of course starting with cling foil could be worth trying, but I was worried for the added thickness and possible restriction in movement...

83repair - Staining and Cleaning (continuously updated) - Page 3 Empty How to remove pencil marks Sun May 22, 2022 6:27 am

maxman


I'm currently having custom clothes being made for my Phicen figurines. The wonderful clothes-maker has bought a Phicen S39 to help with the task. She had to use pencil to draw on the figure, and now wonders how she can clean the pencil marks off.

Any ideas? Or would the usual wash, mild soap, leave to air dry, remove pencil marks?

On another note, her Phicen S39 has a tearing nipple just about 3 weeks after receiving it. I vaguely know there are silicone-friendly glue which some people here use. What brand is it?

GubernatorFan

GubernatorFan
Founding Father
maxman wrote:I'm currently having custom clothes being made for my Phicen figurines. The wonderful clothes-maker has bought a Phicen S39 to help with the task. She had to use pencil to draw on the figure, and now wonders how she can clean the pencil marks off.

Any ideas? Or would the usual wash, mild soap, leave to air dry, remove pencil marks?

On another note, her Phicen S39 has a tearing nipple just about 3 weeks after receiving it. I vaguely know there are silicone-friendly glue which some people here use. What brand is it?
I don't know that there is anything that can get the pencil off. Maybe clear mineral spirits? But anyway, pencil is notoriously one of the few things that actually stains these surfaces effectively. Whatever method she uses, she should reapply protective powder to keep the surface from getting tacky and more easily damaged.

I also don't know that there is any glue that would completely fix a tearing nipple (how on earth did that happen?), but in principle, silicon glue of some sort (there is some made for home improvement by GE = General Electric) ought to be a step in the right direction.


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maxman


GubernatorFan wrote:
maxman wrote:I'm currently having custom clothes being made for my Phicen figurines. The wonderful clothes-maker has bought a Phicen S39 to help with the task. She had to use pencil to draw on the figure, and now wonders how she can clean the pencil marks off.

Any ideas? Or would the usual wash, mild soap, leave to air dry, remove pencil marks?

On another note, her Phicen S39 has a tearing nipple just about 3 weeks after receiving it. I vaguely know there are silicone-friendly glue which some people here use. What brand is it?

I don't know that there is anything that can get the pencil off. Maybe clear mineral spirits? But anyway, pencil is notoriously one of the few things that actually stains these surfaces effectively. Whatever method she uses, she should reapply protective powder to keep the surface from getting tacky and more easily damaged.

I also don't know that there is any glue that would completely fix a tearing nipple (how on earth did that happen?), but in principle, silicon glue of some sort (there is some made for home improvement by GE = General Electric) ought to be a step in the right direction.


I did a search on mineral spirits and was pointed to white spirit. It was described as "Good solvency for oil, grease, wax, silicone and general dirt. Do not let product come in contact with rubber." I'm guessing, Phicen is made of silicone, and from another thread, Jiaou is some kind of TPE.

My clothes-maker found the nipple tearing off when she undressed the S39 to make my clothes. It would appear to be like this out-of-the-box. I haven't seen it for myself yet.

GubernatorFan

GubernatorFan
Founding Father
maxman wrote:I did a search on mineral spirits and was pointed to white spirit. It was described as "Good solvency for oil, grease, wax, silicone and general dirt. Do not let product come in contact with rubber." I'm guessing, Phicen is made of silicone, and from another thread, Jiaou is some kind of TPE.

My clothes-maker found the nipple tearing off when she undressed the S39 to make my clothes. It would appear to be like this out-of-the-box. I haven't seen it for myself yet.
No, despite early advertisement to that effect, Phicen/TBLeague bodies are made of a type of TPE, not silicone. This has been confirmed.


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87repair - Staining and Cleaning (continuously updated) - Page 3 Empty Thanks Fri Apr 07, 2023 2:36 pm

Baristapunk


Kayla wrote:Thank you for sharing your experiences on staining and cleaning.  repair - Staining and Cleaning (continuously updated) - Page 3 D012 Many have probably already had painful experiences with discoloration of clothing - you can't always only wear white clothes (even if I luckily like white and my 1:6 scale girls and ladies too).


Over many years I have gained experience in the durable dyeing of 1:1 scale clothing (for people). And then fixing salt is used to fix the color and, if necessary, supplemented with normal table salt (if the amount of fixing salt is not enough).

So I transferred these experiences to the 1:6 scale clothing. I first wash the clothes I bought with liquid detergent for silk and wool (very mild detergent). Each item of clothing comes in an extra cereal bowl (for better observation). In several rinses I watch whether the paint is still bleeding. repair - Staining and Cleaning (continuously updated) - Page 3 A015 When little or no more color is bleeding out, I add table salt to the rinse bath to fixate and let it soak for a while. And then rinse one last time with clean water and let it dry.

Once I was too impatient with a new pair of jeans - a big mistake!  repair - Staining and Cleaning (continuously updated) - Page 3 E02110 I really wanted to know immediately whether the fit was right and immediately tried the jeans on a Phicen Lady. And her legs and feet (seamless) were instantly blue! Of course, I immediately washed the body with water and a mild shower gel and the discoloration became a little lighter. Then I put the Phicen Lady in a tall cylinder with distilled water for about  2  weeks, which covered the discoloration. Fortunately, the color has been completely removed.
Caution - please do not use normal tap water (for soaking)! repair - Staining and Cleaning (continuously updated) - Page 3 B042repair - Staining and Cleaning (continuously updated) - Page 3 B036
In my first attempt with tap water (a long time ago) the silicone skin turned reddish brown because the water contained traces of minerals. If you leave the body in the water for a few days, it takes on the color of the minerals (even if the water looks clear). But I was also able to completely remove this discoloration with distilled water. Lots of trial and error experience!

GubernatorFan

GubernatorFan
Founding Father
Baristapunk wrote:
Thank you for sharing your experiences on staining and cleaning.  repair - Staining and Cleaning (continuously updated) - Page 3 D012 Many have probably already had painful experiences with discoloration of clothing - you can't always only wear white clothes (even if I luckily like white and my 1:6 scale girls and ladies too).


Over many years I have gained experience in the durable dyeing of 1:1 scale clothing (for people). And then fixing salt is used to fix the color and, if necessary, supplemented with normal table salt (if the amount of fixing salt is not enough).

So I transferred these experiences to the 1:6 scale clothing. I first wash the clothes I bought with liquid detergent for silk and wool (very mild detergent). Each item of clothing comes in an extra cereal bowl (for better observation). In several rinses I watch whether the paint is still bleeding. repair - Staining and Cleaning (continuously updated) - Page 3 A015 When little or no more color is bleeding out, I add table salt to the rinse bath to fixate and let it soak for a while. And then rinse one last time with clean water and let it dry.

Once I was too impatient with a new pair of jeans - a big mistake!  repair - Staining and Cleaning (continuously updated) - Page 3 E02110 I really wanted to know immediately whether the fit was right and immediately tried the jeans on a Phicen Lady. And her legs and feet (seamless) were instantly blue! Of course, I immediately washed the body with water and a mild shower gel and the discoloration became a little lighter. Then I put the Phicen Lady in a tall cylinder with distilled water for about  2  weeks, which covered the discoloration. Fortunately, the color has been completely removed.
Caution - please do not use normal tap water (for soaking)! repair - Staining and Cleaning (continuously updated) - Page 3 B042repair - Staining and Cleaning (continuously updated) - Page 3 B036
In my first attempt with tap water (a long time ago) the silicone skin turned reddish brown because the water contained traces of minerals. If you leave the body in the water for a few days, it takes on the color of the minerals (even if the water looks clear). But I was also able to completely remove this discoloration with distilled water. Lots of trial and error experience!
Practice makes perfect. Thank you for sharing your experience and recommendations regarding treatment of clothes and stained figures. In terms of the seamless body, time by itself might also achieve the desired effect of the stain fading, after a couple of initial washes (perhaps even without).


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LongLostMan


Hi everyone, I’ve been a member here for a while now but haven’t been active on the forum much so I’m sorry if this question has been raised before. I have a Phicen TBleague M33 still in its box and I bought him some nice clothes but I’m terrified of them staining him. Obviously I will wash everything first as per the instructions here but I also wondered if one of these white bodysuits would help prevent it. Any advice would be appreciated, thank you in advance.
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/144482999994?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=zNW4MPxBSzW&sssrc=4429486&ssuid=wQ9g2aT2RJO&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY

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