I was trained in a professional photography school, so let me give you my two cents worth. First off, you can shoot rather excellent photos with almost any digital camera these days, however you will find it easiest if you get yourself a DLSR. The reason is that the best photos usually require you taking control of your camera rather than letting it make most of the decisions for you. You can do this with a lot of non DSLR types too, but the controls are so small as to be difficult and irritating to use, making it time consuming to change any setting.
Finally, about blurriness in the images. This can be caused by two things; one is being out of focus, the other is camera shake while you are shooting. The one we are concerned with here is camera shake. Camera shake is a completely normal result of the camera moving slightly as we release the shutter. The longer the shutter opening, the more likely you will have camera shake. Whether you are using a phone to shoot your photos, or a $3000.00 plus pro camera like mine, you can have blurry photos due to camera shake. The solutions to this are:
1. Shoot using flash, allowing you to use higher shutter speeds.
2. Shoot at higher ISO allowing you use higher shutter speeds.
3. Use a tripod and shutter release.
Guess which option all first year photo students are taught to use first. Hint; it's number 3. The tripod and shutter release is the easiest and easiest way to get consistently sharp images, no matter what your lighting situation since you can use whatever shutter opening you need to get the right amount of light in. In addition to this, if you do multiple takes of the same shot, bracketing your exposures, the tripod is the ONLY way to make sure that the framing will be the same in every shot. Do NOT scrimp and buy a cheap plastic tripod! They are worth nothing and will break very easily. If you are serious, get yourself a quality tripod like a Manfrotto (known as "Bogen" in the USA) and you will never regret it.
Of equal, perhaps greater importance is your lens. Your macro lens will be next to useless here. They are awesome for shooting photos of insects and so on, but if you try to use it for your 1/6 scale figures, you will find only the portion of the figure you focus on to be in clear, sharp focus and the rest will be out of focus. Moreover, if you buy a new DSLR, even a consumer model, they are often sold as kits, usually with an inexpensive zoom lens, which while it may not meet pro standards, will still deliver fantastic clarity.
Finally, a word about megapixels. Don't get fooled by MP counts. When I started my photo training, the best pro DSLR's were at 12MP's and the average consumer DSLR was at 6MP. Today, I shoot with a 36MP camera that's already 7 years old because I have no need to move beyond that. Most consumer DSLR's today are 24MP or higher which is twice what pro cameras had available in 2006. Unless you are printing images that will be blown up to very large sizes, you get nothing from this surplus in MP's. Most of your photos will be posted to the internet at 72 or 96 PPI and you will get nothing for the money spent going to huge pixel counts. I print photos and print big, so the pixel count matter to me. But I also use lenses that cost more than most people pay for camera and lens put together. Don't base your choices on my needs; base them on yours.
Finally, be aware that there are several critical decision essential to good photography that no camera can make for you, no matter how sophisticated.
1. Where to position the camera?
2. What is the subject of the photo?
3. How to frame the photo?
4. What elements should be in focus, and what elements should be out of focus?
5. When should you release the shutter?
Kamiko Observes by Gary Menten, on Flickr
Any modern DSLR, including a pre-owned one will deliver excellent results if you pair it up a with a decent lens, good lighting, and a bit of skill.