Very neat. I had actually completely forgotten that this could really be driven.
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An online community to discuss and share news about sixth-scale figures, with an emphasis on either custom or commercial articulated figures.
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GubernatorFan wrote:Very neat. I had actually completely forgotten that this could really be driven.
Dienamic wrote:I just wish there was more scale vehicles in the 1/6 range. The majority of them are 1/10. Even the 1/12 figures are too small for the 1/10 vehicles. I'm not sure if it would be easier to make a 1/6 vehicle or a 1/10 figure...
Pia community wrote:I am thrilled.
The photos are so exciting and the comments are very nice.
And then the video with a dangerous ride!
Perfect
davidd wrote:Impressive flex in that suspension! Is that the stock shocks, or have you upgraded the suspension on the ROCHobby Jeep?
Dienamic wrote:davidd wrote:Impressive flex in that suspension! Is that the stock shocks, or have you upgraded the suspension on the ROCHobby Jeep?
Stock shocks with the limiters removed and the oil replaced. They are descent shocks even if they are plastic bodied. They have yet to leak. Only issue I have is the weight of the TBLeague body. I could use just a little stiffer springs. lol.
davidd wrote:
I have read comments online suggesting to change the shocks for use with heavier passengers, but adding stiffer springs makes more sense! What weight oil did you use? I have a ROCHobby Jeep, but I have not done anything with it. When I start reading online, it starts sounding very complicated very quickly. Nobody seems to agree on anything, other than, "change the oil" or "change the shocks." But they are never specific about what oil to use or what shocks would be better.
I suppose an option would be to use lightweight, cheap plastic figure bodies when actually driving the Jeep, and the actual Phicen bodies only for photo set-ups.
Dienamic wrote:
I used a 30wt Traxxas oil and removed the little black tube on the shock rod. You can see the tube if you look thru the spring. That requires complete disassembly of the shock but that's not too hard. I also used Losi "green slime" when I reassembled the shocks. That keeps them from leaking. Just a little smeared on the shock rod before you insert it back in the body.
I have my preload almost maxed out right now. If I go to a stiffer spring I can back off the preload which should also give me a little more travel. I have no problems running the the Phicen body with my current setup but it could be improved.
Dienamic wrote:
I used a 30wt Traxxas oil and removed the little black tube on the shock rod. You can see the tube if you look thru the spring. That requires complete disassembly of the shock but that's not too hard. I also used Losi "green slime" when I reassembled the shocks. That keeps them from leaking. Just a little smeared on the shock rod before you insert it back in the body.
I have my preload almost maxed out right now. If I go to a stiffer spring I can back off the preload which should also give me a little more travel. I have no problems running the the Phicen body with my current setup but it could be improved.
Bwahaha! Yes but you have to make sure the weep valve goes in the right way or your basin angle will be off!
Huh, what? The schlond poofa goes in the where now?! All this time I thought RCs were kids' stuff...
The girls' poses along with their smiles are so disarming. You're knocking it out of the park with their attitude every time. But is troll-hunting season starting soon?
No worries. They can be an odd lot. You get grizzled rednecks and tech dudes all in the same lot.
Thank you! That is the clearest explanation of the shocks situation I have seen. The R/C hobbyists are quick to lapse in to jargon on the R/C forums, and for the most part do not seem very welcoming to newcomers.
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