Painting seamless bodies (NSFW?)

I can't say that I've noticed applications of oil pastel to actively remove the previous layer (it may be a question of how well ensconced it is), but later layers definitely have less effect -- I think of it as the surface having a finite ability to receive the oil pastel particles.

I do think there's a limit to how much paint you can "rub" into the surface before you're just painting on top of paint.

Hello! I'm doing everything that was posted on the last 8 pages....Ha
Wish me luck!

"You stood on the shoulders of geniuses to accomplish something as fast as you could, and before you even knew what you had, you patented it, and packaged it, and slapped it on a plastic lunchbox, and now you’re selling it, you wanna sell it. Well…your scientists were so preoccupied with whether or not they could that they didn’t stop to think if they should"

mvde27 wrote:Hello! I'm doing everything that was posted on the last 8 pages....Ha
Wish me luck!

"You stood on the shoulders of geniuses to accomplish something as fast as you could, and before you even knew what you had, you patented it, and packaged it, and slapped it on a plastic lunchbox, and now you’re selling it, you wanna sell it. Well…your scientists were so preoccupied with whether or not they could that they didn’t stop to think if they should"

Ha! Welcome... and good luck!

mvde27 wrote:Hello! I'm doing everything that was posted on the last 8 pages....Ha Wish me luck!

I second Sky: welcome and good luck. Don't do everything -- avoid the mistakes.

GubernatorFan wrote:

mvde27 wrote:Hello! I'm doing everything that was posted on the last 8 pages....Ha Wish me luck!

I second Sky: welcome and good luck. Don't do everything -- avoid the mistakes.

Duly noted! Cheers

Dr. Ian Malcolm, is that you? Welcome aboard, and good luck. I have all the materials to try this dying technique, I just haven’t done it yet.

So I was able to get 1 coat of Oil Pastel on the body.
- I first washed the Phicen body with soap and water and it did become tacky
- I then used soft makeup brushes to apply the Oil Pastel using Gamblin Artist's Oil color (same company as Gamsol)
- I will see what 24hrs looks like and update.

Look I am going for is a White, tight lycra SUPERHERO uniform.

Any comments/questions/tips are always welcome!

Ok so that was a total bust.
After 24hrs it was still wet and tacky and had not absorbed into silicone whatsoever.
Good news is Gamsol reversed what I did so I’ll try something else.

Hmm, why are you applying oil pastel with a soft make up brush? You need to apply the pastel directly y pressing it over the surface, rub it in with a make up sponge (which would spread and ensconce the oil pastel particles and their color, while dislodging any strays that have not become attached), then give it a gentle wash, then pat dry, then go again (especially where the coloring made less of an impact), and so on until you are satisfied with the result (and you don't see any color transfer onto the paper towel you use to pat dry). A point of caution -- you need to rub in the pastel with the make up brush, but you don't want to get carried away with it. This is usually a problem when you need to do several applications, especially if you are trying to blend colors.

Ok. First it’s liquid oil if that matters.
I applied with sponge not brush. Thinking that I put it on WAY too heavy.
There is no blending it’s just 1 color, uniformly spread. A second color will be applied as a logo.
I will have another go. Brush application, multiple coats.
Question. Standard time between application and wash pat dry? Immediate? I’m guessing lighter coats rubbed in should dry quicker.
Thanks

Sorry your attempt with oil paint didn't work, mvde27. But I'm glad it was removeable!

I think gooboo mentioned that he'd had some difficulty with applying a second layer of oil paint, so it could be that the oil painting method only works for one thin layer.

ETA: How long did you let dry? Oil paints can take quite a while to fully dry....

I can't advise you on oil paint. Oil pastel works for me and I have not tried other methods. With oil pastel work is instantaneous, and you can proceed from application to rubbing in to rinsing to drying and to repeating the whole thing without waiting.

I imagine that you would still need to rub in the oil paint after applying, but I really should give you no advice on something I have not seen work myself. Gooboo had some experiments with this, maybe he can shed more light on this. I don't remember whether he was satisfied with it in the end.

Your explanation isn't very clear. Oil pastels and oil paints are two totally different things. Since you say it's wet, I'm assuming you meant oil paint and not pastel.

If you're using the oil paint method then yes you actually use a relatively small amount of paint and spread it thin over a larger area. It shouldn't be wet and shiny like it is in your photo. Also, if you're using titanium white it will take around 7-10 days to dry since titanium white is a slow drying paint.

**EDIT**- the experimentation I've done with oil paint showed a lot of promise for painting figures white, since white paint is very opaque. I haven't had a much luck making figures really dark, since dark oil paints tend to be transparent.

Sorry for the confusion.
Yes paint.
So I will...
Put on a lighter coat and let dry 7-10 days.
I’ll report back. Cheers.

Thanks for helping out, gooboo! : )

Question I had for you -- does the oil paint dry 'matte' on the tbleague bodies? It looked like it did from your pics, but I know that oil paints often have a sheen to them so I thought I'd check.

All of the oil painting I've done has ended up looking matte. If your paint is shiny like in the picture above, you're using too much.

skywalkersaga wrote:Thanks for helping out, gooboo! : )

Question I had for you -- does the oil paint dry 'matte' on the tbleague bodies? It looked like it did from your pics, but I know that oil paints often have a sheen to them so I thought I'd check.

You are correct it "dried" matte. no real gloss.
I used "Radiant White" instead of titanium

Hi! Just a quick question. My tb league body is way too dark and I would like to make it lighter. Is the oil pastel method the best for this? Or is there a makeup like foundation that could give me the results I'm looking for. Maybe there is other methods I could try? Thanks!

AsianPerzuasion wrote:Hi! Just a quick question. My tb league body is way too dark and I would like to make it lighter. Is the oil pastel method the best for this? Or is there a makeup like foundation that could give me the results I'm looking for. Maybe there is other methods I could try? Thanks!

Good question. It would help if you illustrated with the body and the head sculpt(s) you are trying to match. Technically speaking, it might be easier to make (partial/slight) paint adjustments to the head than the body (more on that below). Oil pastel works well for repainting the body and getting a pretty permanent solution (it is very very hard to wash off, but not completely impossible, in my experience). The problem with oil pastel is that there is a relatively limited number of available colors (though that depends on what pastel set you get) and blending different colors is rather difficult. So you need to find the right color(s), and they need to have the right consistency and intensity once on the body. Applying the pastel lightly might not work well in theory, because you are likely to end up with application lines and gaps between them, even after you rub them in with the make up sponge. Sky reports that oil pastel was unsuitable for getting a consistent and successful light color body -- but you are talking about making the body lighter, not a complete repaint. Gooboo has been experimenting with oil paint (not pastel), look at his results (though what he does with white and with darker paints are two different experiments that might not be relevant to what you are thinking of doing).

All that is harder to do than repainting some or all of the head sculpt. Now I realize that one might not want to mess with the perfection some head sculpts can be, but there are ways to do so more or less subtly. For example using very watered-down acrylic paint (include some Liquitex Professonal Ultra Matte Medium to keep it from being too shiny), gently applied with a q-tip (at least in the larger areas) -- especially under the chin line, ears, and back-of-the-head hairline (if you are afraid to treat the face). Depending on how great the mismatch, you might be able to get away with the face itself being lighter. Or you can use the same technique more sparingly to give it a more appropriate matching color while still not obscuring the finer details (eyebrows, eyelashes, etc). I was a bit bolder this time around, but take a look at my James Dean repaint (sorry, I forgot to include a "before" photo as usual) --
https://onesixthfigures.forumotion.com/t3909-star-ace-james-dean-head-repaint

Whoa thanks for all the info! I truly appreciate it!

AsianPerzuasion wrote:Whoa thanks for all the info! I truly appreciate it!

You are very welcome. I do hope it is helpful, just wish the others had chimed in with their experience.

Sorry, GF.... been busy. I didn't chime in because I felt I didn't have much else to add.

I agree with you that it's probably better to repaint a head to match the body at this point , because it's very difficult (or impossible) to make a tbleague body lighter than it is to make it darker. (Other than potentially using gooboo's oil paint method, which I don't have experience with so I can't really comment on.)

skywalkersaga wrote:Sorry, GF.... been busy. I didn't chime in because I felt I didn't have much else to add.

I agree with you that it's probably better to repaint a head to match the body at this point , because it's very difficult (or impossible) to make a tbleague body lighter than it is to make it darker. (Other than potentially using gooboo's oil paint method, which I don't have experience with so I can't really commend on.)

No apology necessary, and I hope all goes well with you. I just recall you being frustrated trying to lighten a body -- but I think you were trying to actually make it white, which is not quite the case here, and thought some of that experience might be pertinent. I, too, feel uneasy commenting on methods that I have not used myself (like RIT dye or oil paint).

thanks for the tips and tricks guys
but did you all tried out using gundam markers (real touch) on the Phicen figures?

GubernatorFan wrote:

skywalkersaga wrote:Sorry, GF.... been busy. I didn't chime in because I felt I didn't have much else to add.

I agree with you that it's probably better to repaint a head to match the body at this point , because it's very difficult (or impossible) to make a tbleague body lighter than it is to make it darker. (Other than potentially using gooboo's oil paint method, which I don't have experience with so I can't really commend on.)

No apology necessary, and I hope all goes well with you. I just recall you being frustrated trying to lighten a body -- but I think you were trying to actually make it white, which is not quite the case here, and thought some of that experience might be pertinent. I, too, feel uneasy commenting on methods that I have not used myself (like RIT dye or oil paint).

Well, my immediate need to lighten a body to turn it white is moot since I picked up one of those Sinful Suzi bodies a while back. ;D  But it's still good to know if there are alternative methods for future..

CaseyTong wrote:thanks for the tips and tricks guys
but did you all tried out using gundam markers (real touch) on the Phicen figures?

Hi there! You're welcome. And sorry, I'm not familiar with those markers... ?

Very cool! gives me hope yet to match Jake's body!

CaseyTong wrote:thanks for the tips and tricks guys
but did you all tried out using gundam markers (real touch) on the Phicen figures?

I have not tried Gundam markers, but if you read my adventures and misadventures in trying to paint body hair and then the Darth Maul design, most markers will not work well. I don't believe these would, but I don't know. You can always experiment, for example on the part of the neck of the TBLeague body near the neck post, which will always be obscured by the head. Remember to remove the protective powder first (for example with a wet q-tip), and then to replace it afterwards, after you are done experimenting. You might want to leave the experiment overnight to make sure the marker has a better chance of drying/curing -- if any.

GubernatorFan wrote:

CaseyTong wrote:thanks for the tips and tricks guys
but did you all tried out using gundam markers (real touch) on the Phicen figures?

I have not tried Gundam markers, but if you read my adventures and misadventures in trying to paint body hair and then the Darth Maul design, most markers will not work well. I don't believe these would, but I don't know. You can always experiment, for example on the part of the neck of the TBLeague body near the neck post, which will always be obscured by the head. Remember to remove the protective powder first (for example with a wet q-tip), and then to replace it afterwards, after you are done experimenting. You might want to leave the experiment overnight to make sure the marker has a better chance of drying/curing -- if any.

Hmm...  I'll try it
Oh yes...  About the powder you are talking about.
After cleaning with wet q-tip and applying the color,  should I use back some baby powder on it?