ELENDIL'S HELMET ..... Building a custom articulated 1/6 scale SAURON from Peter Jackson's LOTR using 3D printed statue parts

Great progress. and sorry for the resin dust mess. Does wetting the resin first help at all? I've done that before, it still creates residue but it doesn't spread as far so quickly. But I don't remember if I tried it specifically with the printed resin...

That seems such a handy and detailed way to cut it.... wish I were not so scared of using sharp tools... ;p

Great progress! Sorry to see that mess, I was about to write "It is very messy and dusty." when you first asked, but then I thought "shovelshop surely won't just dremel it unprepared!" :p I like to dremel (censored) like that into a plastic bag like Gubernator does with his heads.

Depending on the kind of resin, hot water makes it more elastic and bendable/cuttable. But it's best done before curing.

BAMComix wrote:really clever stuff!

Cheers BAM! Although I don't think intelligence has anything to do with it LOL, more like experience and patience!

skywalkersaga wrote:Great progress. and sorry for the resin dust mess. Does wetting the resin first help at all? I've done that before, it still creates residue but it doesn't spread as far so quickly. But I don't remember if I tried it specifically with the printed resin...

That seems such a handy and detailed way to cut it.... wish I were not so scared of using sharp tools... ;p

It's not the sharpness of the blade you need to worry about, it's the waiting for the exploding blade part that can get trying! Experience, skill and luck can make blades survive a lot longer, for example I am now finished using the jeweller's saw and only broke 2 blades for a lot of very tricky work using it on an X,Y,Z axis to get around curves and still cut at an angle to save both parts of the armour; when I started a silversmithing course years ago I'd be breaking blades every few seconds which is why they usually come in a pack of 100 or more! It's having to stop, faff about cutting the blade to length, ensuring it's facing the right way, then putting tension on it (like a violin string) and clamping down the butterfly nuts while keeping the blade in place with only one hand to do it all every time a blade breaks which is the annoying part, not the actual blade breaking itself.

Ovy wrote:Great progress! Sorry to see that mess, I was about to write "It is very messy and dusty." when you first asked, but then I thought "shovelshop surely won't just dremel it unprepared!" :p I like to dremel (censored) like that into a plastic bag like Gubernator does with his heads.

Depending on the kind of resin, hot water makes it more elastic and bendable/cuttable. But it's best done before curing.

To be fair I didn't Dremel unprepared, I used a baby hacksaw as you said cutting it was fine

All done now! Even got that evil elbow apart without breaking a blade! YAY! Done loads of Dremeling too cleaning everything up and removing all the connection posts, excess material and rough edges etc..

Ah, yes, the inferno that is resin. But you will make it all worthwhile in the end -- the start is very promising, and you are knocking these LOTR bashes out of the park. One thing that I usually do when using my dremel is put whatever I'm working on inside a big deep clear plastic bag, hold it through the bag, while carefully grinding/drilling/sanding it inside. The vast majority of the little particles ends up inside the bag, and the clean up job is a lot less extensive. You would still do well to employ the other precautions too, when working with resin. I hate the stuff.

PS Oh wow, just saw Ovy's post, where he remembers my "procedure" -- I must have been venting about this before.

GubernatorFan wrote:Ah, yes, the inferno that is resin. But you will make it all worthwhile in the end -- the start is very promising, and you are knocking these LOTR bashes out of the park. One thing that I usually do when using my dremel is put whatever I'm working on inside a big deep clear plastic bag, hold it through the bag, while carefully grinding/drilling/sanding it inside. The vast majority of the little particles ends up inside the bag, and the clean up job is a lot less extensive. You would still do well to employ the other precautions too, when working with resin. I hate the stuff.

PS Oh wow, just saw Ovy's post, where he remembers my "procedure" -- I must have been venting about this before.

Cheers! Used to do that clear bag trick years ago but got fed up with it and built the glass box (aquarium I found) set up with two holes for my arms, works great but it's in the workshop/kitchen not my comfy tv watching build spot ie: the couch!!

The importance of being able to multi-task (even if one of those tasks is enjoy entertainment -- or maybe looking at reference matter) is definitely something to keep in mind. I usually work in front of my computer monitor. But I do my dremel work, when needed, in the nearest bathroom -- easier to clean. Unlike you, of course, I rarely have to resort to it.

GubernatorFan wrote:The importance of being able to multi-task (even if one of those tasks is enjoy entertainment -- or maybe looking at reference matter) is definitely something to keep in mind. I usually work in front of my computer monitor. But I do my dremel work, when needed, in the nearest bathroom -- easier to clean. Unlike you, of course, I rarely have to resort to it.

Well it gets a bit confusing as my TV is my monitor and I don't watch TV LOL! So it's usually YouTube documentaries that keep me entertained while working, great way to learn things too!

Finished modding the cast parts now so moved onto the joint possibilities starting with the waist and hips, I think my idea will work but it will be a tight fit with plenty of hot glue! Wait...will hot glue deform the resin or is it chemically set now?

After seriously attacking the oversized Hasbro Kylo Ren figure (15"?) I had used to parts from to make my own custom Ren some years back, I think I now have a viable system for a strong waist swivel and large jointed hips/thighs to attach to the torso and thigh armour. I cut the leg joints from another Hasbro random SW body lying around that should work as articulated knees connecting the shin armour to the thigh armour. I have an option of using either a junked Hasbro Darth Maul lower body (I think it's him as it's black and small but not a woman and covered in Lucas Film markings) for shoulder and elbow joints by using the legs or use the arms from the other Hasbro body combined with these. I'll be using Bionicles lego parts for the neck since I want to run electronics in there. All the joints have to be narrow enough to be covered in real mail while still functioning properly and look proportionate to the armour while wearing the mail.

This is a very challenging part of the project. Wishing you luck and patience.

GubernatorFan wrote:This is a very challenging part of the project. Wishing you luck and patience.

Thanks GTF! I have to keep in mind the real mail only expands and contracts one way too!!

It’s really coming along nicely. But, even with your precautions, all that resin dust kind of has me worried about your continued health, Alex. Do you have a more open space where you can work on this stuff to alleviate some of this more?

Stryker2011 wrote:It’s really coming along nicely. But, even with your precautions, all that resin dust kind of has me worried about your continued health, Alex. Do you have a more open space where you can work on this stuff to alleviate some of this more?

I open the porch windows in front of me which brings in a fresh breeze and I'm wearing a proper double cartridge respirator not a flimsy surgical mask. Been doing it for years, not a problem; it just surprised me that a 'new' state of the art construction material turned out to be just like the really old stuff!

Updates: Used plasticine to gauge the shape and size of the top part of the waist swivel by inserting it into the torso until snug in the correct area then removing it to trace around onto the plastic which I then cut. Sanded down a bunch of parts to fit inside the resin parts, also painted all the armour with primer black, was a pain in the neck to get into all those crevices/steps/angels/details etc.. with the spray can!!

Very Cool looking project!

BAD WOLF-787 wrote:Very Cool looking project!

Thank you BW!

Right it's all or nothing now, he's been coming together so easily I found it boring! So focusing on the abdomen and torso armour you will notice it's built for CGI only, they went for form over function which is fine; makes a super cool looking evil big boss but it does mean there is no 'real world' articulation that can be translated from the design even though it looks to have  some concertina styled armoured plates along the ribcage. You'll notice they didn't even try on the official 1/12 scale version and put the electronics and speaker in there instead, I don't blame them in the slightest!!
Anyway I'm going in and hacking it all up to articulate it or I'll forever look at this piece and think 'You could have been so much more if only I had tried harder... '

Going to start off with good old Lego Bionicles stuff, perhaps a spring or two etc.. basically take what I've learnt doing builds like this in the past but be ready for a possibly higher difficulty level due to fiddleyness. I have been using and will continue relying on black milliput a lot! And a hot glue gun.





















SO YOU CAN SEE THAT MECHANICALLY THIS IS FAR FROM EASY TO ARTICULATE!




















1/12 TOYBIZ VERSION FOR COMPARISSON











OPERATION: "OH CRAP, GOING IN BLIND!"





























IF I DIDN'T HAVE TO WORRY ABOUT PARTS COLLIDING AND PAINT CHIPPING IT WOULD BE A LOT EASIER!! UNFORTUNATELY THE SELLER DIDN'T HAVE ANY BLACK RESIN AND THE GREY TURNED OUT TO BE MORE BLUE!

Now that is articulation! You are very brave and inventive. As for the grey resin, you can surely paint it, and at least those parts that don't rub together from the changes in posing would stay put, while those that do will create a nice contrast that would highlight the rest of the armor pieces. In fact, you might find yourself looking to replicate this effect in spots where nothing will rub off.

GubernatorFan wrote:Now that is articulation! You are very brave and inventive. As for the grey resin, you can surely paint it, and at least those parts that don't rub together from the changes in posing would stay put, while those that do will create a nice contrast that would highlight the rest of the armor pieces. In fact, you might find yourself looking to replicate this effect in spots where nothing will rub off.

Not exactly sure what you mean as the base colour that would show is bluish not dark grey annoyingly although I appreciate those places that might chip would of course show weathering in real life. Been thinking about various ways to hide or distract from open joints during articulation, anything from foam to EL-wire!

Welcome, welcome..... to my amazing land of confusion!!  

I just though I'd share the weird conundrum that is articulating Sauron's plate armour!
I sort of know what I'm doing but as expected this is a bit of a challenge to get right which pertains: looking good when posed, looking good when not posed, being able to pose realistically, not breaking, not falling apart, not chipping paint if possible, resetting parts automatically with rubber or spring into the default shape.

He is looking amazing already!! And using a gorilla stand for the spine... genius!

Diana wrote:He is looking amazing already!! And using a gorilla stand for the spine... genius!

Thank you Diana! Yes it was lucky I thought of using that stand as it's perfect for this build!

Connected his 'spine' securely to the inner frame and that in turn to the external armour, I skipped taking pics of some of the mods as at the time I was more occupied with making them work. I'm planning on using rubber to connect the cut up armour parts and hope it will 'give' enough to allow the desired articulation. It's all trial and error now!

This is definitely the Land of Confusion. Never ceases to amaze me the work that goes into your builds. Interesting “spine” you are using for this guy. There’s a company/store here in the States that makes similar armatures for folks to use for “stop-motion” animation:

https://morezmore.mybigcommerce.com/

I, too, am very impressed by your inventive use of this type of element for the spinal column. Excellent idea. Perhaps something like this could be used for other limbs too. Especially if the joints are able to pose stiffly enough. The thing about "give" due to rubber and (to a lesser extent) springs, is that this can mess with the poseability, by destabilizing your figure from the inside, and making it difficult to pose precisely or to keep its balance. It is a problem with some of the seamless bodies out there that do not use a complete metal skeleton, for example. Perhaps black foam (like the type used for certain foam treys for boxed sets) can help. I don't know whether it would mess with or enhance your design, but would making the limbs and torso a little longer help accommodate the needs of the armor for articulation (then again, you might end up with small gaps that you will need to attend to with something under the armor).

WOW - what a project... have not had the time to really dig into the details of what you are doing, but it looks promising. I am confident you will achieve a supercool result.

Stryker2011 wrote:This is definitely the Land of Confusion. Never ceases to amaze me the work that goes into your builds. Interesting “spine” you are using for this guy. There’s a company/store here in the States that makes similar armatures for folks to use for “stop-motion” animation:

https://morezmore.mybigcommerce.com/

Cheers Stryker! Yeah the ones you showed me are a different system and full metal, the same as ones used on soldering station grab arms etc.. A bit heavy for most 1/6 stuff.

GubernatorFan wrote:I, too, am very impressed by your inventive use of this type of element for the spinal column. Excellent idea. Perhaps something like this could be used for other limbs too. Especially if the joints are able to pose stiffly enough. The thing about "give" due to rubber and (to a lesser extent) springs, is that this can mess with the poseability, by destabilizing your figure from the inside, and making it difficult to pose precisely or to keep its balance. It is a problem with some of the seamless bodies out there that do not use a complete metal skeleton, for example. Perhaps black foam (like the type used for certain foam treys for boxed sets) can help. I don't know whether it would mess with or enhance your design, but would making the limbs and torso a little longer help accommodate the needs of the armor for articulation (then again, you might end up with small gaps that you will need to attend to with something under the armor).

Thanks GTF! I'm right with you as far as rubber and springs go with posability, discounted rubber in favour of a more forgiving material like fibre card or a textile. Yes a big block of foam would work much better than a spring and fill in the gaps; I literally had this idea about half an hour ago which helped me drag my arse out of bed! LOL. I had been thinking about a 'pull up and bend' ab-crunch like HT use for their Ironman figures but don't think I'll need it hopefully.

Illusion wrote:WOW - what a project... have not had the time to really dig into the details of what you are doing, but it looks promising. I am confident you will achieve a supercool result.

Thank you Illusion!

Making sense now! The string glue bits are all gone now and any glue has been sharpied black and doesn't show now. The rubber used is latex casts I had made before that are angled correctly for attaching the lower torso parts. I'll be filling the gaps created by the articulation either with thin foam or rubber/latex. I haven't put foam behind the 'belly plate' yet so it is sitting too far in at the moment.

It really is coming together. Nice look and great twist at the waist.

This is looking so cool already.

GubernatorFan wrote:It really is coming together. Nice look and great twist at the waist.

Stryker2011 wrote:This is looking so cool already.

Thanks guys! Took so many pics of all the work I've done since but too tired to post them all so here are a few.













































































Okay so got it all up there, tried to show his torso articulation, back and forth, side to side, leaning side to side etc.. also the feet are articulated at the ankles and so are the massive pauldrons. Hip skirts and hands next...

At the risk of repeating myself, he is coming together nicely. So the regular shoes fit within the armored ones? Very cool. How do you manage to keep the articulated joints reasonably stiff so that the figure could hold its balance, weapons, etc?

GubernatorFan wrote:At the risk of repeating myself, he is coming together nicely. So the regular shoes fit within the armored ones? Very cool. How do you manage to keep the articulated joints reasonably stiff so that the figure could hold its balance, weapons, etc?

I actually cut down the shoes from a 12" WWE figure (the big fully articulated ones, used the body for something else in the past). The joints are held together with multiple screws that can be tightened although they are quite tight as is, the shoulders have soft ratchets built in. Not sure about the pauldron placements, I had them even further apart initially but realised the was a mistake so shortened the ball joint a bit but still unsure if the are sticking out too far. Because I've lengthened bits of his body to make him taller (an inch or so) having the pauldrons hanging out a bit more than normal seems to give him more bulk to match the height but still not sure...I'll try reversing the ball joints to bring them in a bit to see how that looks.