Painting seamless bodies (NSFW?)

OwnsBeagles wrote:That there is the reason I even hunted up this site like-- four years ago now?  I think?  And bookmarked it.  I wanted to know if anyone could conceivably do Maul's colors and markings on a seamless, largely because I totally want to do one, and there you went and pulled it off.  Fantastic work, really; thanks for pioneering it, in case I ever have the time to make use of the damn Phicen I bought years ago hoping to make an attempt.  You probably saved me a hell of a lot of time and money.

(Also, amusingly, I am likely one of those people whose fanart you ran across.  Though I don't see him as a sex symbol, I totally ship him with his arch-nemesis and have drawn such things accordingly. )

Anyway, sorry for bringing this back around, but I wanted to give you a big thumbs up even if it's late!

Thank you very much for the kind words. I'm delighted this is helpful. When it comes to you giving it a try, please read carefully the various posts here, and maybe the linked custom Maul thread. Just so there aren't any surprises or disappointments. As far as the ink/marker is concerned, I think my latest experiment, with Gundam real touch paint markers might be best (used on Maul 3.0), although with enough handling even they seem to sill transfer just a little bit. The others are just not as hard-wearing. I have yet to experiment on using the Gundam real touch markers on top of oil-pastel-colored background -- to any considerable degree. I wonder if that would be (a) practical and (b) possibly even better than Gundam on Gundam. I would be interested to see what you come up with, so don't be shy (but do keep in mind Forum policies).

GubernatorFan wrote:Thank you very much for the kind words. I'm delighted this is helpful. When it comes to you giving it a try, please read carefully the various posts here, and maybe the linked custom Maul thread. Just so there aren't any surprises or disappointments. As far as the ink/marker is concerned, I think my latest experiment, with Gundam real touch paint markers might be best (used on Maul 3.0), although with enough handling even they seem to sill transfer just a little bit. The others are just not as hard-wearing. I have yet to experiment on using the Gundam real touch markers on top of oil-pastel-colored background -- to any considerable degree. I wonder if that would be (a) practical and (b) possibly even better than Gundam on Gundam. I would be interested to see what you come up with, so don't be shy (but do keep in mind Forum policies).

If I get the time, I totally would. LOL! (I work full time in a physically demanding job, so time becomes more and more precious the older I get.) I do plan on re-reading even more in-depth. Heck of an exercise, really. As to forum policies, I am an old hat on many and can censor with the best of 'em.

Anyway, again, terrific work and I'll be sure to check out the other threads, too!

OwnsBeagles wrote:If I get the time, I totally would. LOL!  (I work full time in a physically demanding job, so time becomes more and more precious the older I get.)  I do plan on re-reading even more in-depth.  Heck of an exercise, really.  As to forum policies, I am an old hat on many and can censor with the best of 'em.

Anyway, again, terrific work and I'll be sure to check out the other threads, too!

Thanks again. I get it about the time... a precious commodity that one can never get back. No pressure.

I have a quick question for gooboo .... regarding the oil painting method, if one already has a body coloured in oil pastels, can you paint the oil paint on top of it? I am having a bit of a struggle with a particular body in getting coverage, and I thought maybe I could just use the oil paint in a very fine layer on top of the oil pastel to sort of touch it up so the skin doesn't show through. But I'm not sure if that would work in the way I envisage....

I haven't tried it, but I don't see why not. The only problem might be that the oil might wipe away some of the pigment next to the area you're trying to color in.

Ok, thanks, gooboo! I'll experiment on an area that will be covered up, first, just in case. : )

What would be the best way of going about lightening a figure?

tony72 wrote:What would be the best way of going about lightening a figure?

In principle, it seems easier to darken than to lighten a seamless body's skin tone. Some of the approaches outlined above would not work at all, others would look like you've spread body paint or powder over a darker body. The most promising solution seems to me to be oil pastel. See Parts I and II in this thread, for example:

https://onesixthfigures.forumotion.com/t4922-yet-another-tbleague-body-pale-repaint-experiment-updated-with-part-ii-2-0

I believe gooboo says he had success with painting a tbleague body white using oil paint. Don't know how that would work with fleshtones though. Based on my own recent experiements with oil paint, I found that you really can only do one single layer, so any colours would need to be pre-mixed before applying.

yeah, plus i figure oil paint is a real pain in the ass and dries much more slowly compared to oil pastel. does the pastel have any color transfer or does it stick well enough?

tony72 wrote:yeah, plus i figure oil paint is a real pain in the ass and dries much more slowly compared to oil pastel. does the pastel have any color transfer or does it stick well enough?

Read through this thread for all the details -- it has been a learning experience over time. But the short of it is that, if you have the patience and thoroughness to rub in the oil pastel well enough, and to gently wash off any excess after each application, then apply protective powder, there should be none to negligible transference. Patience is not one of my many virtues, but even I seem to have done a decent job of it, and have only occasionally seen a little bit of transference from the bodies that I gave an African skin tone to the most tightly fitting parts of elastic white sport shorts, etc, but it is not very pronounced and only on the inside of the garment. Still, read carefully through all the relevant posts in this thread for various details and caveats.

thank you! i have gone through this thread a few times and evaluated all the different methods, but wanted to know if the oil pastels held up well over time. i'd like to try a base lightening coat with oil pastels and then tbrisko's pastel wash method to bring out some more realistic skin tones, veins, stippling/freckles, etc. i purchased an M31 and not only is the skin tone darker than i expected, it's also duller. hoping this method works

tony72 wrote:thank you! i have gone through this thread a few times and evaluated all the different methods, but wanted to know if the oil pastels held up well over time. i'd like to try a base lightening coat with oil pastels and then tbrisko's pastel wash method to bring out some more realistic skin tones, veins, stippling/freckles, etc. i purchased an M31 and not only is the skin tone darker than i expected, it's also duller. hoping this method works

Good luck, I hope it works well, and that you share your results with us. In my experience M31 is their poorest body, but perhaps at least the quality has improved since then (I got mine when they were first released); it is, however, the easiest one to dress, and quite handy that way. While all of the TBLeague male bodies have been "suntan" (except for M36B which is darker), that "suntan" has varied from the more grey M30 to the warmer colors used since; M31 might be a bit on the darker side compared to M32, M33, M34, M35, and M36A. I cannot advise on pastel wash, as I have not attempted it myself.

Wasn't sure where to ask this and didn't want to make an entirely new topic for it, but does anyone know what the hands/feet/most reads are made of? Was hoping to mold mine so I can sculpt some myself. I was going to spray acrylic lacquer over everything before molding (I usually do this just in case when using platinum-cure silicones anyway) but I want to make sure I can remove that from the hands after and not damage it with acetone if I use that for removal

Depending on what brand body you buy, many of them are hard plastic (not sure exactly what kind). Some have used a softer plastic, which is nice because it makes the fingers more pliable, but then you have to worry that they may not be able to hold objects for long, or the fingers warp over time. Hard plastic would be the way to go, as you can heat them up to make them more pliable when needed.

Stryker2011 wrote:Depending on what brand body you buy, many of them are hard plastic (not sure exactly what kind). Some have used a softer plastic, which is nice because it makes the fingers more pliable, but then you have to worry that they may not be able to hold objects for long, or the fingers warp over time. Hard plastic would be the way to go, as you can heat them up to make them more pliable when needed.

It's the hands that came with the phicen M35 so I'd say they're pretty soft? Just wanna make sure acetone wouldn't melt them or anything like that lol I'm afraid to do a spot test

Ah, yeah, I can see where that may be a concern. Have you tried something like Vaseline smeared on the inside of the mold? You may have no alternative but to test the acetone and see what happens, however.

Stryker2011 wrote:Ah, yeah, I can see where that may be a concern. Have you tried something like Vaseline smeared on the inside of the mold? You may have no alternative but to test the acetone and see what happens, however.

I have a spray mold release I was going to use over the lacquer. The lacquer is just to make a covering over the items just in case one of them contains one of the many chemicals that can inhibit platinum silicone from curing lol

I did end up doing a small test on a foot and it looks like it just took the paint off--which I expected bc the whole reason I have acetone currently was to take the faces off of dolls lol
Guess we'll see tomorrow if it ate a hole in it or something (though i doubt it will at this point)

If you're worried about cure inhibition, you don't need to spray a sealant over the hands or feet when using platinum silicone- I had the same concerns myself and tested it and they caused no cure inhibition.

I personally wouldn't use acetone on the plastic hands, I learned the hard way that it can eat away at it pretty quickly.... :/

Would Waterlslide or temporary tattoo style decals be suitable on phicen male bodies? I’m not good enough of an artist to paint the designs I want with pens or markers.

weskerfan5690 wrote:Would Waterlslide or temporary tattoo style decals be suitable on phicen male bodies? I’m not good enough of an artist to paint the designs I want with pens or markers.

They are less than ideal, at best. Might be ok in areas that are not subject to much bending and stretching, but handling them repeatedly is likely to cause them to tear or peel off.

GubernatorFan wrote:

weskerfan5690 wrote:Would Waterlslide or temporary tattoo style decals be suitable on phicen male bodies? I’m not good enough of an artist to paint the designs I want with pens or markers.

They are less than ideal, at best. Might be ok in areas that are not subject to much bending and stretching, but handling them repeatedly is likely to cause them to tear or peel off.

Well, that’s unfortunate, I guess if I want my phicen figures to have cool arm sleeves I will have to draw them myself. Any tips on making it easier? Perhaps another more forgiving type of marker that can be easily erased?

weskerfan5690 wrote:Well, that’s unfortunate, I guess if I want my phicen figures to have cool arm sleeves I will have to draw them myself. Any tips on making it easier? Perhaps another more forgiving type of marker that can be easily erased?

Unfortunately it is a Catch 22. They can't be viable if they are easily erasable. I am not 100% sure in their infallibility, but the Gundam Real Touch markers seem to be the most promising option. Just remember to go bit by bit, soaking up the ink off each bit without smudging it (many cotton swabs will be wasted in the process), then leave it alone for a while, and handle the carefully. As for undoing errors, determined washing would do it, especially when fresh. But you would have difficulty containing that to any specific small area.
https://onesixthfigures.forumotion.com/t260p360-painting-seamless-bodies-nsfw#55467

Would adding some sort of clear coat be good for protecting the tattoos? And how should I position the arms while drawing?

weskerfan5690 wrote:Would adding some sort of clear coat be good for protecting the tattoos? And how should I position the arms while drawing?

Painting on a clear coat would be as futile as any kind of acrylic -- it will crack and flake off. Soaking up Gundam Real Touch paint (which is what that "ink" actually is) during application seems to be the best measure to cut down on the tendency to smudge and to expedite curing/drying. Then wait a while, and keep testing for any transference. Once the whole thing is done you can wrap it in paper towel and massage gently -- taking care to keep it from moving, lest there is any transference.
If you go with Gundam Real Touch markers, remember you have a broader and a finer applicator at the opposite ends of each marker. If memory serves, counter-intuitively, the bigger cap is over the finer applicator, but check.
I would guess that the most comfortable position for the arms for this procedure would be to extend them straight and perpendicular to the body. You can then rotate the whole figure as needed and have as little interference from the rest of it as possible, without having to reposition (and touch) the actual arms.

Would it be a good idea to at least add some masking tape to help guide me as I draw?

weskerfan5690 wrote:Would it be a good idea to at least add some masking tape  to help guide me as I draw?

I wouldn't leave tape on top of the TPE skin for any significant amount of time; some experiments involving this have ended in disaster. It is fine to use to pick up lint and dust from the body, but then you have to remember to reapply protective powder. Speaking of which, remember to remove the powder by washing before painting anything on the skin, and reapplying it once everything is done and dry.

GubernatorFan wrote:

weskerfan5690 wrote:Would it be a good idea to at least add some masking tape  to help guide me as I draw?

I wouldn't leave tape on top of the TPE skin for any significant amount of time; some experiments involving this have ended in disaster. It is fine to use to pick up lint and dust from the body, but then you have to remember to reapply protective powder. Speaking of which, remember to remove the powder by washing before painting anything on the skin, and reapplying it once everything is done and dry.

Then is there any safe way to add some sort of stencil?