TBLeague / Phicen Seamless Bodies with Steel Skeleton Catalog (updated continually)

It is possible there was more variation than I was aware of. As you can see I didn't do much consistent collecting until they started to have figure bodies that could stand on their own. I did have some of their plastic skeleton figures before that, but broke one or two biceps and after failing to fix them, saved the heads and the bikinis and threw the broken bodies away. Probably should have kept them around for customs.

Man, this is absolute what i need. The figures with sizes ! And a view of the skeleton, so i can see where i have to cut the " steel bones " for modifications. If You stripped the skin by Yourself.... You can´t put it back on the Skeleton, right ? You need the key for the TBL Factory hall to do this

Thanks for showing !

Ephiane wrote:Man, this is absolute what i need. The figures with sizes ! And a view of the skeleton, so i can see where i have to cut the " steel bones " for modifications. If You stripped the skin by Yourself.... You can´t put it back on the Skeleton, right ? You need the key for the TBL Factory hall to do this

Thanks for showing !

Thank you very much. I'm glad you like it and find it useful.

This made me chuckle. I cut vertically down the TPE flesh on the torso with an X-Acto knife. It was surprisingly difficult to cut the flesh open, which is why I keep reminding people that this TPE material is actually pretty durable, if handled and stored with a decent degree of caution. After this and cutting through plenty more "accidental sinews" that had formed when the material had seeped into joints and little openings, I was able to slide the skeleton out of the body (as you would remove a jumpsuit). I kept the "boneless" body around for experimentation, and it has been seen here and there in some threads, eventually being subjected to my first attempts at replicating your oil pastel technique for coloring. Anyway, I suppose you could always stuff the skeleton back in, but you will have to find a good enough technique to glue the cut area shut (there is silicone glue, but I don't know how well it would work or hold). I've long discarded the flayed material, so I can't test for this.

https://onesixthfigures.forumotion.com/t2052-emancipating-the-phicen-tbleague-skeleton-m31-flayed

https://onesixthfigures.forumotion.com/t260-painting-seamless-bodies-updated-june-2020#5080 (Post 30)

Amazing resource! Thank you so much for putting this together. Agree that it was about time, and I appreciate you going ahead and doing it. I hope this helps people who are starting out as well as all the adventurous customizers amongst us.

skywalkersaga wrote:Amazing resource! Thank you so much for putting this together. Agree that it was about time, and I appreciate you going ahead and doing it. I hope this helps people who are starting out as well as all the adventurous customizers amongst us.

Thank you very much. I'm glad you like it and I appreciate the encouragement. And I hope so too.

Fantastic resource! I am bookmarking this thread for future use!

MeMyself&I wrote:Fantastic resource! I am bookmarking this thread for future use!

Thank you very much. I'm very happy you're finding it useful.

This is great! Thanks for compiling everything into one thread! Appreciate your hard work!My gotos are usually 17b or 23b for female. I do have a ymtoy head though that looks undersized. I'm thinking of maybe getting a 25b for it. That or find one of the cheaper non phicen bodies.

csyeung wrote:This is great! Thanks for compiling everything into one thread! Appreciate your hard work!My gotos are usually 17b or 23b for female. I do have a ymtoy head though that looks undersized. I'm thinking of maybe getting a 25b for it. That or find one of the cheaper non phicen bodies.

Thanks, and you're very welcome. I'm glad you're finding this useful. I, too, had S17B and S23B as my usual go tos, but lately I prefer S29B and S25B. Yes, it gets trickier finding heads that work with the more petite bodies, but it's not impossible. For example, S25B works pretty great with the HT Leia head(s), as in here:
https://onesixthfigures.forumotion.com/t3178-silver-linings-a-star-wars-story-nsfw

Works really well with the Leia! Did you have to add some blue tack for the head to fit on the 25 peg?

csyeung wrote:Works really well with the Leia! Did you have to add some blue tack for the head to fit on the 25 peg?

Thank you. Not blue tack in this instance, but a foamie.

It makes more sense to me that the promo photo for the S37 (with HS) stating pale is an error. The S37A headless is stated as suntan so why would the HS version be different? Also, what would be the difference between S36A and S37A if not skin tone?

I don't think there is an S39B. It's confusing that they dropped the 'B' suffix starting with S37, but it appears to be their new nomenclature going forward... even #A = pale / odd #A = suntan.

Annalise wrote:It makes more sense to me that the promo photo for the S37 (with HS) stating pale is an error. The S37A headless is stated as suntan so why would the HS version be different? Also, what would be the difference between S36A and S37A if not skin tone?

I don't think there is an S39B. It's confusing that they dropped the 'B' suffix starting with S37, but it appears to be their new nomenclature going forward... even #A = pale / odd #A = suntan.  

1. It would make more sense to me if S37 were suntan, too, but all the promotional materials list it as pale, like S36 (likewise the corresponding headless versions S36A and S37A). Perhaps the only difference is the bikini (and, where applicable, the head). For example:
https://scontent-sjc3-1.xx.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/95217136_2750234675256198_5368503159138287616_o.jpg?_nc_cat=104&_nc_sid=e007fa&_nc_ohc=ig24g7pqnWIAX_AMeRg&_nc_ht=scontent-sjc3-1.xx&oh=b929d2fbde99f92722f33815d698334c&oe=5F64F9E2

2. Thanks for the correction, the suntan headless version of S39 is indeed S39A, not S39B. I have corrected the label and information above accordingly.

Only seeing this thread now! Very good work and such a great overview! Love it and will come back to this thread several times if I'm about to buy some more bodies in the future

Valiarde wrote:Only seeing this thread now! Very good work and such a great overview! Love it and will come back to this thread several times if I'm about to buy some more bodies in the future

Thank you very much. I'm glad you find it useful. Keep in mind that this is continually updated as new information becomes available, and that a lot of the updating is in the form of editing existing posts (so it won't show up as a new post) -- like the reference photo for the new S39 or indeed the correction of the erroneously assumed name S39B to S39A, to use recent examples. I plan on adding sample heights for all the female bodies that I have, too.

GubernatorFan wrote:

Valiarde wrote:Only seeing this thread now! Very good work and such a great overview! Love it and will come back to this thread several times if I'm about to buy some more bodies in the future

Thank you very much. I'm glad you find it useful. Keep in mind that this is continually updated as new information becomes available, and that a lot of the updating is in the form of editing existing posts (so it won't show up as a new post) -- like the reference photo for the new S39 or indeed the correction of the erroneously assumed name S39B to S39A, to use recent examples. I plan on adding sample heights for all the female bodies that I have, too.

If you don’t mind, I’d like to contribute some data to some existing ones in case anyone can find it useful. I own the s07/09 and have a s16a and s10d on the way. I’d like to contribute shoulder width, height to the top of the neck peg, w/hs, as well as B/W/H for what I own. I should have the s16a tomorrow and the s10d Monday or Tuesday.

MeMyself&I wrote:If you don’t mind, I’d like to contribute some data to some existing ones in case anyone can find it useful. I own the s07/09 and have a s16a and s10d on the way. I’d like to contribute shoulder width, height to the top of the neck peg, w/hs, as well as B/W/H for what I own. I should have the s16a tomorrow and the s10d Monday or Tuesday.

By all means, thank you! Let me know and I will integrate the data.

GubernatorFan wrote:

MeMyself&I wrote:If you don’t mind, I’d like to contribute some data to some existing ones in case anyone can find it useful. I own the s07/09 and have a s16a and s10d on the way. I’d like to contribute shoulder width, height to the top of the neck peg, w/hs, as well as B/W/H for what I own. I should have the s16a tomorrow and the s10d Monday or Tuesday.

By all means, thank you! Let me know and I will integrate the data.

Sounds good! I’ll post it once I have the s10d in hand, probably Tuesday next week if Amazon is on time. I’ll compile the 07/09 tonight, the 16a tomorrow.

*Edited to add the S44*

Hey everyone! I decided that I would take my original post and update it with more detailed information. I have added some TBL bodies, and thought it was time to update this, and have some fun with some stupid # comments.

My methodology:

My methodology has not changed at the core. I am a researcher by training, and as such I am quite picky when it comes to things like scale measurements and the like. I wanted then to be as accurate as possible, while making it easy to use.

I own the s07c, s09c, s10d, s16a, s20a, s23b, s38, s42, s44, s48, and s52a for the ladies, and a single m34 for the guys. Each female body was posed based on this image so that its posture would be as close to accurate as possible.




Each measurement was taken in millimeters for accuracy, and rounded to the nearest millimeter for ease of use.


Originally I had measured each body first to the neck peg, then with two heads, one which I customized, the other straight out of the box, listing which head got which measurement. This time around I opted for a more consistent approach:

- Same neck/head adapter
- Same resin cast head
- Two separate leg lengths (will explain shortly).

The neck adapter should come with most heads and will likely vary greatly, so if there is a wildcard here, it is this.

The head however, is not. I used a head I cast in resin for a custom I have been working on for what feels like forever. While she is a reject (I broke her ear    ), she fits snuggly on the head connector without moving, and most importantly she is BALD! There is now NO guesswork where the top of the head is! The head itself measures 35.34mm from bottom of the chin to the top of the crown. For those wanting a picture, here you go!



As for two separate leg lengths, let me explain. I am sure many of you know this, and my stupid self would have known it as well had I read the stupid instructions that come with these bodies, that the area where the hip is is double jointed. You can quite literally change the length of the leg at the hip with these. Not new I am sure.

I decided to include that measurement, one with the legs fully extended, the other with the legs fully retracted, to show the full range of possible heights. Fun fact, it ranges anywhere from a 4mm to a 6mm difference. Let that sink in on just how much that is in this scale.

I have also gotten into making my own clothes for my figures, partly because it is cheaper, partly because it is fun, mostly because I can do what I want. The result is this grouping of measurements:

- shoulder width
- waist width
- hip width
- arm inseam
- leg inseam
- underbust (for the female bodies)

Hopefully these measurements will be helpful to someone, be it out of interest or to make their own stuff.

I do not have any pictures at the time either because I am not happy with how they turned out and want to reshoot.

One final note, but I do not have the whole suite of measurements for the s16a I own. She is currently put together as a character and I have no desire to mess with that. Her measurements are as accurate as I currently can make them.

S07C/S09C
Height (top of standardized HS)
- Tallest: 279mm
- Shortest: 273mm
- Bust: 153mm
- Under-bust: 106mm
- Waist: 93mm
- Waist width: 32.82mm
- Hips: 143mm
- Hip width: 52.37mm
- Shoulder width (shoulders at lowest point): 67mm
- Leg in-seam: 128mm
- Arm in-seam: 89mm
- Thigh circumference: 82mm


S10D/S12D
Height (top of standardized HS)
- Tallest: 282mm
- Shortest: 277mm
- Bust: 145mm
- Under-bust: 106mm  
- Waist: 92mm
- Waist width: 31.36mm
- Hips: 147mm
- Hip width: 50.53mm
- Shoulder width (shoulders at lowest point): 67mm
- Leg in-seam: 122mm
- Arm in-seam: 87mm
- Thigh circumference: 78mm


S16A/S17B
- Height to the top of the neck peg: 268mm
- Height with the SD HS: 282mm
- Height with the YMT HS: 285mm (I am unsure why it's 3mm different on this body, I will check later and adjust if needed).
- Bust: 140mm
- Under-bust: 108mm
- Waist: 94mm
- Waist width: 30.58mm
- Hips: 140mm
- Hip width: 46.69mm
- Shoulder Width: 64mm
- Leg in-seam: approx. 143mm
- Thigh circumference: 86mm
- Arm inseam: approx 81mm


S20A/S21B 
Height (top of standardized HS)
- Tallest: 283mm
- Shortest: 279mm
- Bust: 163mm
- Underbust: 123mm
- Waist: 91mm
- Waist width: 30mm
- Hips: 140mm
- Hip width: 47mm
- Shoulder width (shoulders at lowest point): 68mm
- Leg in-seam: 129mm
- Arm in-seam: 88mm
- Thigh circumference: 87mm


S22A/S23B
Height (top of standardized HS)
- Tallest: 282mm
- Shortest: 279mm
- Bust: 144mm
- Underbust: 114mm
- Waist: 95mm
- Waist width: 33mm
- Hips: 140mm
- Hips width: 48mm
- Shoulder width (shoulders at lowest point): 68mm
- Arm inseam: 87mm
- Leg inseam: 132mm
- Thigh circumference: 87mm


S38/S39
Height (top of standardized HS)
- Tallest: 266mm
- Shortest: 262mm
- Bust: 163mm
- Underbust: 117mm
- Waist: 107mm
- Waist width: 36.84mm
- Hips: 160mm
- Hip width: 57.22mm
- Shoulder width (shoulders at lowest point): 70mm
- Leg in-seam: 120mm
- Arm in-seam: 71mm
- Thigh circumference: 94mm


S42/43
- Height (top of standardized HS)
- Tallest: 293mm
- Shortest: 289mm
- Bust: 163mm
- Underbust: 120mm
- Waist: 106mm
- Waist width: 37mm
- Hips: 163mm
- Hips width: 57mm
- Shoulder width (shoulders at lowest point): 62mm
- Arm inseam: 81mm
- Leg inseam: 138mm
- Thigh circumference: 91mm

S44
- Height (TBD head sculpt)
- Tallest: TBD
- Shortest: TBD
- Neck peg tallest: 252mm
- Neck peg shortest: 248mm
- Bust: 113mm
- Underbust: 96mm
- Waist: 74mm
- Waist width: 25mm
- Hips: 124mm
- Hips width: 42mm
- Shoulder width (shoulders at lowest point): 45mm
- Arm inseam: 70mm
- Leg inseam: 128mm
- Thigh circumference: 79mm

S48 This is a smaller body, and came with its own head sculpt. This sculpt was used in the measurements.
- Height (top of included HS)
- Tallest: 285mm (282mm without long neck)
- Shortest: 280mm (277mm without long neck)
- Bust: 140mm
- Underbust: 103mm
- Waist: 93mm
- Waist width: 31mm
- Hips: 142mm
- Hips width: 49mm
- Shoulder width (shoulders at lowest point): 54mm
- Arm inseam: 74mm
- Leg inseam: 130mm
- Thigh circumference: 85mm

s52a/s53b I had a Head Sculpt that measured at 38mm from bottom of the chin to the crown of the head, so I used that for the measurements here.
- Tallest w/38mm HS: 296mm
- Shortest w/38mm HS: 290mm
- Neck peg tallest: 280mm
- Neck peg shortest: 271mm
- Bust: 160mm
- Underbust: 120mm
- Waist: 93mm
- Waist width: 37mm
- Hips: 158mm
- Hips width: 57mm
- Shoulder width (shoulders at lowest point): 62mm
- Arm inseam: 81mm
- Leg inseam: 138mm
- Thigh circumference: 91mm


M34 (with Henry Cavill HS)
Height (top of hair): 310mm
Chest: 210mm
Waist: 142mm
Hips: 164mm
Thigh circumference: 104mm
Bicep circumference (outstretched arm): 78mm
Shoulder width: 95mm
Chest depth (front to back, deepest point): 53mm


Non-TBL bodies for comparison

I had originally asked Randam Hajile for the base measurements of the AT201 (thanks Ralf!), so once I bought one I wanted to get it posted for reference.

WorldBox AT201 (I used the Head Sculpt that came with the TBL s42 (with red hair) for the height measurements)
- Height to top of neck peg: 250mm
- Height to top of Headsculpt: 270mm  
- Bust: 135mm
- Underbust: 110mm
- Waist: 101mm
- Waist width: 33mm
- Hips: 156mm
- Hips width: 59mm
- Shoulder width: 67mm
- Arm inseam: 82mm
- Leg inseam: 110mm
- Thigh circumference: 86mm

AT201 next to the TBL s52a




*Notes*

The s52a is one of the more unique bodies I own at this point. It is basically the s42 with removable feet, which doesn't surprise anyone. But where it is really unique is the difference in height you can achieve by adjusting the legs/hips. On average, there is a 4mm height difference when adjusting both legs/hips up into the body (which TBL encourages you to do to offset some height differences). The s52a has a 9mm difference. 9mm!!! That is incredibly impressive. I need to revisit the s42 to see if I need to update anything, but regardless, this is very useful.

The s52a also has a much shorter neck, which helps a lot with not looking like a giraffe.


The S48's included head sculpt sits very high on her neck, making it look like her neck is considerably long, hence the two measurements on both the tallest and shortest heights.


And for the sake of kinda interesting body measurements in real life, lets scale up some of this to 1:1 for fun! *rounded up for ease*

- The M34 has a 50" chest and nearly 18.5" biceps (not even flexed). All on a 6'1" frame. #heworksout

- The s16a has a 33" bust/26" underbust compared to the s38a's 38" bust/28" underbust. The former also stands at roughly 5'7" at her tallest while the later is just under 5' at her shortest. #proportions

- The female bodies range from 78mm to 94mm in thigh circumference, or 18.5" to 22". The smallest girl (s10d) has thighs as big around as the M34's bicep on his relaxed arm! #somebodyskippedlegday.

- By extension, the thigh circumference of the M34 (104mm) is nearly on par with the waist of the S38a (107mm) (24" and 25" respectively). #doesthisqulifyfor'thickthighssavelives'?

- The female bodies in this lineup range from B cups to GG depending on your preferred method of sizing. You can do the math, but if cup size = difference between bust and underbust, and there are at least two major ways of calculating the band size (+4 method, +0 method, who the heck knows what in-between), then the numbers are crazy. #whodidthismath? #ladiesIamsosorryyoudealwiththisstupidity

(The hashtags are all meant to be goofy, though I really do feel bad for my lady friends in that the clothing world they live in is really, really stupid, especially when it comes to bust sizes.)  

I hope this is all useful to someone!

Thank you very much for the detailed and scientific breakdown, MeMyself&I. I will insert links to this post in the relevant places.

I haven't said this before but this is a great thread - very informative, thanks GF and MM&I.

One thing - and I don't mean to be picky here especially as I'm too lazy to put in the effort to do this myself - but it might also be useful to measure leg length too as I've noticed that can vary markedly between models. The legs of the 32/33 for example are indeed longer than other models, but they're also thicker and less shapely than say the 18/19, which makes them appear shorter than those when they actually aren't, so it would be very interesting to have accurate technical stats.

It might be an idea to also document the design tweaks and batch variants in each model as they occur, such as the 'bubble butt' tweak to the 22/23 model, and the various flexibities of the skeletons of each model (an 18/19 is less flexible at the waist than other newer models, for example).

GeeWillikers wrote:I haven't said this before but this is a great thread - very informative, thanks GF and MM&I.

One thing - and I don't mean to be picky here especially as I'm too lazy to put in the effort to do this myself - but it might also be useful to measure leg length too as I've noticed that can vary markedly between models. The legs of the 32/33 for example are indeed longer than other models, but they're also thicker and less shapely than say the 18/19, which makes them appear shorter than those when they actually aren't, so it would be very interesting to have accurate technical stats.

It might be an idea to also document the design tweaks and batch variants in each model as they occur, such as the 'bubble butt' tweak to the 22/23 model, and the various flexibities of the skeletons of each model (an 18/19 is less flexible at the waist than other newer models, for example).

I’ll find where the appropriate measurements should be taken and update my post accordingly! The tricky bit is going to be range of motion, as I’ve found on mine it varies, but more in production tolerance than in actual range.

Thank you, Gee. I'm glad you approve. And in principle I support this, but I should note that while I have seen reference (by you and others) to such variations, I cannot always verify them myself -- I do not own (or desire to own) anything between S29B and S39A, and apart from these have only picked up multiples of S25B. Even setting aside pale versions or seamless ankles that inhibit standing ability among many new models, my favorite older bodies like S23B now seem unnecessarily tall, so I haven't gotten any new versions of those. That is why I would depend on the kindness of other forum users to report this type of information, which I can then link or integrate (with due credit) in the catalog.

Which is why I provided what I can and will update as best I can with other data like the leg length and such. There are a ton of questions we have, and we can only answer them as a collective group. My advice to anyone who wants to help, buy these two things: a digital caliper that can show measurements in millimeters and some hemp jewelry rope string (like for necklaces and bracelets). The caliper is going to allow for accuracy and the hemp rope doesn’t stretch easily so you can trust it’s measurements so long as it was positioned properly. A good ruler with marks in cm and mm helps a ton too.

I'm glad you both took that suggestion in the spirit of discovery it was intended  

This kind of guide could never be truly definitive anyway, with the amount of variables between batches that now seems to be occuring, coupled with our own individual perceptions, but it's great to have somewhere to start that gives us whatever concrete technical stats there are when we're making that first choice with a particular model.

I try to get at least one of each of these body types as they're released (bar the too-petite for my taste 26 and 27 and the newer integrated feet models - that said I'll probably get a 42 as I like the sculpt), and it's amazing just how much perception, influenced by all kinds of outside factors, makes each individual body seem just that - individual, even more or less straight out of the box. At the moment for example I've got seven different 23s, and even allowing for the recent design tweak on three of them I can easily tell each one of them apart just as base models, even without heads and any modifications of my own aside.

The best I can offer this thread at the moment are my observations on build and manufacture - as I've said elsewhere, I'm finding that while newer models from 28/29 are of improved and more realistic design, the build quality is sadly now more often than not inferior to the older models (even going as far back as s01/02).

GeeWillikers wrote:I'm glad you both took that suggestion in the spirit of discovery it was intended  

This kind of guide could never be truly definitive anyway, with the amount of variables between batches that now seems to be occuring, coupled with our own individual perceptions, but it's great to have somewhere to start that gives us whatever concrete technical stats there are when we're making that first choice with a particular model.

I try to get at least one of each of these body types as they're released (bar the too-petite for my taste 26 and 27 and the newer integrated feet models - that said I'll probably get a 42 as I like the sculpt), and it's amazing just how much perception, influenced by all kinds of outside factors, makes each individual body seem just that - individual, even more or less straight out of the box. At the moment for example I've got seven different 23s, and even allowing for the recent design tweak on three of them I can easily tell each one of them apart just as base models, even without heads and any modifications of my own aside.

The best I can offer this thread at the moment are my observations on build and manufacture - as I've said elsewhere, I'm finding that while newer models from 28/29 are of improved and more realistic design, the build quality is sadly now more often than not inferior to the older models (even going as far back as s01/02).

I agree the petite bodies are to dang small, even for the characters I plan on doing customs of. I would rather do the math and figure out what scale the normal TBLs are instead. You are right though, the build quality does seem to be considerably different between the bodies. The 07 and 09 are both tanks, and can clearly take a beating. The 10d has me concerned in the elbows, and the 16a has me wondering if the left shoulder is going to fail internally where I can't fix it without performing a major surgery. Yet they both move, essentially silky smooth while the 09 has stiff joints. Yay manufacturing tolerances!

If I could add this real quick as well as it pertains to clothing options. The lingerie sets from MC Toys (https://www.monkeydepot.com/Lingerie_MC_Toys_Exquisite_Underwear_Camry_Series_p/mc0094.htm if anyone needs a reminder) are positively fantastic in how they fit, and frankly are worth it for the price, but it is clear that certain ones are meant for certain bodies (at least in design as they clearly work in a more universal sense). I own three, a large bust white, large bust pink (more nude/tan), and medium bust black. The white one fits the 07/09 perfectly, no pushing/pulling/digging. The pink one is too small, though it does fit the 07/09, but is perfect on the 10d as the white one is on the 07/09. The black one is hilarious to try and get on the 07/09/10d, and is even a bit too small (more like tough to get closed but not impossible) for the 16a. It just strikes me as interesting how those are designed and seem to have specific body types in mind despite being universal.

GeeWillikers wrote:I haven't said this before but this is a great thread - very informative, thanks GF and MM&I.

One thing - and I don't mean to be picky here especially as I'm too lazy to put in the effort to do this myself - but it might also be useful to measure leg length too as I've noticed that can vary markedly between models. The legs of the 32/33 for example are indeed longer than other models, but they're also thicker and less shapely than say the 18/19, which makes them appear shorter than those when they actually aren't, so it would be very interesting to have accurate technical stats.

It might be an idea to also document the design tweaks and batch variants in each model as they occur, such as the 'bubble butt' tweak to the 22/23 model, and the various flexibities of the skeletons of each model (an 18/19 is less flexible at the waist than other newer models, for example).

I have edited the original data post I made with the addition of the s20a to my collection. I have also added, per your request GeeWillikers, the leg inseam measurement as well as arm inseam and thigh circumference. And at the end is a link to an album on flickr that has some good info to for anyone interested in how these bodies stack up with each other, plus a humorous ending pic to the album.

S38 info added (will be completed tomorrow, ran out of time today). Feel free to delete this update post, I don't know if it lets you know I modified the original post with you being a mod or not, so I just wanted to say it was up.

MeMyself&I wrote:S38 info added (will be completed tomorrow, ran out of time today). Feel free to delete this update post, I don't know if it lets you know I modified the original post with you being a mod or not, so I just wanted to say it was up.

Looks like I forgot to respond. Thanks for the heads up -- and for the work, of course. I already updated the catalog to link with your detailed measurements of S38 (and 39).